If you follow my blog, you have probably noticed that I have been publishing quite a few 1 day themed itineraries about Orkney. They are perfect for any visitor but are particularly suited to those short on time or looking for things to do outside the busy summer season. The itineraries have been created by Destination Orkney as part of their 'See You at The Weekend' campaign.
So far I've tested out itineraries specialising in Vikings, Wartime, World Heritage and the Coast. My latest and final 1 day adventure in the series is on the theme of 'Made in Orkney' which explores some of the fantastic products and independent businesses that have put Orkney on the map. For a relatively small place there are a growing number of items made here that are sold globally and the Orkney brand is thriving. From my own experience, there seems to be as much effort and pride put in to creating a quality visitor experience and sharing the heritage of the products as there is in making them. Giving back or supporting the local community in some way, is another common theme. This itinerary will give you a snapshot of the many local businesses on Orkney but there are countless others to explore if you have the time.
You might also enjoy my other blog posts from Orkney
MADE IN ORKNEY ITINERARY LOCATIONS
STOP 1
Highland Park Distillery
In a time when I knew very little else about Orkney, I knew that it produced the well regarded Highland Park whisky. After almost a year working in a whisky shop, I got to know this particular malt and the history behind it very well. It was one of our best sellers and many purchasers shared their travel tales of discovering Highland Park on their own visits to Orkney. Back then, these far flung islands off the north coast of Scotland sounded as far away as the moon to someone who, at that time, had never been further north than Inverness!
Fast forward many years and I can happily say I have travelled further than Inverness countless times and my knowledge of Orkney extends far beyond its famous dram. So it seemed fitting that my day discovering local businesses was a visit to the place responsible for creating the product that first piqued my curiosity in this unique archipelago off the north-east coast of Scotland.
Some of the biggest draws to Orkney are the world class historic attractions and in particular the sites that make up the Heart of Neolithic Orkney, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. These are probably some of the places that I get asked about the most so I was excited to cover them on the latest Orkney 'See You at the Weekend' itinerary. The heritage sites include the Ring of Brodgar, Skara Brae, the Standing Stones of Stenness and Maeshowe, along with a number of unexcavated burial, ceremonial and settlement sites.
I often get asked by visitors to Scotland why they should include Orkney in their vacation and there are many reasons. However, if ancient history is your thing then I can guarantee you will find nowhere else in the country as rich in significant archaeological attractions as on these islands. It is always a sobering thought to remember that many of these monuments are significantly older than the Egyptian pyramids. If you want to discover some of the Neolithic highlights then this 1 day itinerary is for you.
ABOUT THE ITINERARY AND MY ADVICE
This itinerary is one of several autumn and spring themed day trip ideas that are being introduced by Destination Orkney over the coming months as part of their 'See You at The Weekend' campaign. I'll be trying them all out so stay tuned for lots more Orkney inspiration from me. If you intend on following the full World Heritage itinerary then I would advise some advance planning as you will need to take in to consideration opening times and book a place on the Maeshowe tour. Due to these variables it is unlikely that your route will be exactly the same order as mine. I've included a list of the locations below, with a map at the bottom of the page.
ORKNEY WORLD HERITAGE ITINERARY LOCATIONS
STOP 1
Stones of Stenness
One of the best places to start your day is at the Standing Stones of Stenness which may be the earliest henge monument in the British Isles. As there are only four stones remaining, they don't attract as much attention as the nearby Ring of Brodgar despite their massive size. I find this a shame as they form part of what was once a significant site, dating back to 3100 to 2900 BC which precedes the Ring of Brodgar by about 500 years.
The remaining stones were part of an oval-shaped setting that once consisted of up to 12 stones, although it is thought the site was never completed and may have been built over generations. The surrounding ditch is now gone, however the central hearth remains. Evidence recovered shows Neolithic people once cooked and ate at the site.
As for its purpose, the best guesses are that it was used for ceremonies or rituals. With the hearth as a focal point, you can almost imagine the smell of smoke and people gathering around the light and warmth of the flames.
One of the reasons I opted to swap city life for island life is my love of the coast. I could happily potter about beaches and stroll along cliff tops all day long - in fact, that is exactly how I spent last weekend.
When I found out the latest Orkney 'See You at the Weekend' itinerary detailed below was based on local seascapes, with four coastal walks to cover, I was in my element. This was the excuse I had been looking for to ditch mundane household chores and adult responsibilities for the day. Instead, I lost track of time walking along wave battered cliffs, mesmerised by churning seas and feeling revitalised by the brisk sea-breeze. It would have been easy for me to focus solely on the dramatic scenery but I was intrigued by the physical remnants left behind by the people who lived and worked along these stretches of coast over the centuries. Although each walk took me through a unique and equally stunning landscape, my imagination was in overdrive as I followed in the steps of prehistoric man, Vikings, soldiers and fishermen. If there is one thing I recommend you do on a visit to Orkney, it would be to include at least one coastal walk in your itinerary.
ABOUT THE ITINERARY AND MY ADVICE
The itinerary is one of several autumn and spring themed day trip ideas that are being introduced by Destination Orkney over the coming months as part of their 'See You at The Weekend' campaign. I'll be trying them all out so stay tuned for lots more Orkney inspiration from me. The Seascape itinerary involves as much or as little walking as you are comfortable with but I do recommend wearing sturdy, waterproof footwear and be prepared for all seasons in 1 day! Also, please be careful along the cliff walks and keep to the paths. It might be very tempting to snap a photo of you balanced on the cliff edge for Instagram likes, but it is a very long way down in some places and just not worth becoming a statistic. I also recommend taking a spare bag with you to pick up some of the litter that washes up along the beaches. If we all remove a few bits on our walk, we can make a bigger difference
ORKNEY SEASCAPE ITINERARY LOCATIONS
STOP 1
Yesnaby
The walk along the cliffs at Yesnaby is without doubt one of the most dramatic coastal walks on Orkney Mainland. With rugged red crags, sea stacks, arches and geos, there are plenty of striking features to look out for.
The surrounding geology spans hundreds of millions of years and the many layers reveal the history of the landscape dating back to a time when Orkney was located south of the equator. During that period much of Yesnaby formed the bottom of a vast freshwater lake called Lake Orcadie. On a windy day (of which there are many on Orkney!) the sea below bubbles and churns like a cauldron. The waves crash over rocks and rush through small gaps with ferocious power. On really windy days, sea foam and spray are blown over the cliff tops. Yesnaby is a great spot if you want to witness the might of Mother Nature.
Orkney played a vital role in both World Wars and the vast number of wartime structures that litter the landscape are testament to this fact. Its importance was mainly thanks to a body of water named Scapa Flow, a sheltered natural harbour surrounded by many of the Orkney Islands. It is also ideally situated for guarding the North Sea and these factors contributed to Scapa Flow being chosen as the main base for the Royal Navy fleet during both World Wars. The protection of the fleet was a priority and this led to numerous coastal defences and batteries being built on the islands, some of which I recently visited on the wartime themed itinerary detailed below.
Unfortunately there were many local wartime casualties, including a combined total of over 1600 lives lost from attacks on HMS Hampshire and HMS Pheasant during the First World War, and HMS Royal Oak during the Second World War. A tragic accident on board HMS Vanguard during the First World War also resulted in over 800 lives lost and the death of the first civilian through enemy action during the Second World War also took place on Orkney when James Isbister was killed in Stenness. When I first visited Orkney I wasn't fully aware of how much the present day island life had been shaped by this dark period. After following this 1 day itinerary I felt a greater appreciation of the local impact and legacy left by this significant era of history. Tales of horror, hope and human spirit were intertwined in all the places that I visited.
ABOUT THE ITINERARY AND MY ADVICE
The itinerary is one of several autumn and spring themed day trip ideas that are being introduced by Destination Orkney over the coming months as part of their 'See You at The Weekend' campaign. I'll be trying them all out so stay tuned for lots more Orkney inspiration from me.
If you intend on following the full Wartime itinerary then I would advise some advance planning as you will need to take in to consideration opening times and book a place on the Ness Battery Tour. Due to these variables it is unlikely that your route will be exactly the same order as mine. The day is quite intense as there is a lot to do and see but if you're short on time and want to visit all the attractions mentioned then it is doable, just be prepared for a full day out. Alternatively, you can select a few sites to visit and take your day a bit easier or if you have more time, spread the itinerary out over a couple of days and enjoy it at a more relaxed pace. I've included a list of the locations below, with a map at the bottom of the page. I've also provided the approximate minimum time needed to visit (although you could spend much longer at most sites) and some helpful tips at the bottom of each attraction to make your planning as easy as possible - don't say I'm not good to you...
ORKNEY WARTIME ITINERARY LOCATIONS
STOP 1
Churchill Barriers
TIME REQUIRED - 5 MINUTES
The Churchill Barriers are a series of 4 causeways that link the 5 islands of Orkney Mainland, Lamb Holm, Glimps Holm, Burray and South Ronaldsay. Today most people view them as a convenient transport connection and they have certainly opened up local work and tourism opportunities. Indeed, it is the presence of the barriers that allowed me to travel between the various islands on my 1 day itinerary with ease, yet they are probably the most significant wartime legacy on Orkney.
You just have to look beyond the barriers to the rusting remains of ships rising out the water to be reminded of the reason these causeways first came about. These ships are blockships, deliberately sunk to block the passages between the islands. Along with submarine nets they formed naval defences designed to stop German U-boats. However, on 14th October 1939, German U-Boat U-47 managed to pass the blockships at high tide and torpedo HMS Royal Oak which was moored in Scapa Flow. The battleship sank quickly, with the loss of over 800 lives.
Winston Churchill proceeded to visit Orkney and instructed the building of 4 permanent barriers. The project was a great feat of engineering as the deep water and tidal currents caused logistical problems. A shortage of labour force resulted in many Italian prisoners of war being brought to Orkney. Quarries and infrastructure including rail links and piers also had to be created.
Below the smooth tarmacadam surface that exists today, is a massive hidden layer of rocks and concrete. In fact, 250,000 tons of broken rock set in wire cages and 66,000 cast concrete blocks were used to build the barricades. The work began in May 1940 and was completed in September 1944. Today, two of the barriers have been listed by Historic Environment Scotland as structures of national importance and a powerful reminder of Orkney's wartime past.
TIPS FOR VISITING
Hoxa Head
TIME REQUIRED - MINIMUM 45 MINUTES ALTHOUGH YOU COULD SPEND MUCH LONGER
My first proper stop of the morning was on the island of South Ronaldsay, easily reached from Mainland thanks to the previously mentioned Churchill Barriers. On the west coast of the island, Hoxa Head overlooks the The Sound of Hoxa, one of the main approaches to Scapa Flow.
Extensive coastal batteries were built on the surrounding islands of Flotta and South Ronaldsay to defend this strategic Orkney location and it is here that the substantial ruins of clifftop batteries that were operational during both world wars can still be found. Coastal defences are a common feature on Orkney but those at Hoxa Head are among the best ones to visit as there is still an extensive amount of structures remaining with evidence of gun emplacements, observation towers, an accommodation camp and more. I should add that many of the buildings are in a dangerous condition, with some partially collapsed so it is not recommended or advisable to explore inside.
The complex of batteries extends over 700m around the headland and has been listed as a Scheduled Monument. A battery was first installed here during the First World War which included gun and searchlight emplacements, engine room, shelters, accommodation and observation posts. At the end of WW1 the battery was decommissioned and the guns sold for scrap, I'm sure in the thinking that they wouldn't be needed so soon after!
With the arrival of another World War, the defences had to be rebuilt, and a second gun battery known as Balfour Battery was constructed and the whole site extended. Mothballed in 1943, the site was finally abandoned by 1950. I for one hope we never need defences like this again.
TIPS FOR VISITING
STOP 3
Italian Chapel
TIME REQUIRED - 10 - 20 MINUTES
The Italian Chapel is a building I don't think I'll ever tire of visiting. I've been several times now and have noticed something new on each occasion. There is a reason it is one of Orkney's most popular attractions drawing over 100,000 visitors each year.
Essentially the Chapel is constructed from two Nissen huts which have been transformed in to a small but beautifully formed sanctuary. The building came about after a request from Italian prisoners of war who were captured in North Africa and brought to Orkney to assist with the building of the Churchill Barriers. Many of them were based at Camp 60 on the island of Lamb Holm and wanted their own place of worship. The request for a chapel was agreed and the prisoners undertook the construction work and interior decoration during their spare time. One of the prisoners, Domenico Chiocchetti, was an artist and he was responsible for a large part of the design. He was assisted by Giuseppe Palumbi, a blacksmith, and Domenico Buttapasta, a cement worker, among many others. The Italian Chapel is stunning and a testament to their devotion and talent. It is hard to believe all the intricate detail was mainly fashioned from scrap material, concrete and some bought items from the prisoners welfare fund.
After the interior was completed, the prisoners started work on the exterior. Standing before the ornate white facade, there is little evidence that the building actually consists of two very plain Nissen huts. Head around the side and the back of the chapel to fully appreciate what basic shelters they were working with.
The Italian Chapel was actually only in use for a short period and has been restored and preserved over the years since which I for one am glad of as not many beautiful things rise out of the horror of war. |
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