It's an unseasonably warm October's day and I'm standing on the deck of Ros Crana, a colourful Belgian barge which is gliding almost silently down the deep, glassy channel of the Caledonian Canal towards Loch Ness. The surrounding Highland landscape looks twice as imposing with the autumnal colours reflected on the mirror like surface and the crisp air carries a hushed soundtrack of birdsong as we leisurely motor along.
The carbon copy clouds floating lazily on the inky water have a hypnotising effect and only the occasional surface bubble from a hidden fish breaks my trance like state.
I'm on day 2 of a week long cruise through the Great Glen with Caledonian Discovery and I'm already wondering if life can get any better than this; sun, scenery, stillness and Scotland.
There are many ways to explore the Highlands of Scotland and a boat may not be the first mode of transport that springs to mind, mainly because not many people realise that it is a viable option.
A trip along the Caledonian Canal will take you from coast to coast through the Great Glen, a Highland wilderness with satisfyingly spectacular scenery. A long straight valley which slices the Scottish Highlands in two, it is home to imposing mountains, native pine forests, tumbling waterfalls, an abundance of wildlife and steeped in clan and Jacobite history.
Construction of the canal was authorised by an Act of Parliament in 1803 to link the west and east coast of Scotland, allowing vessels to avoid the risky journey around Cape Wrath. The famous engineer Thomas Telford subsequently produced the plans for what is recognised as an impressive feat of early 19th Century engineering, now protected as a Scheduled Monument. The 60 mile long route connects four lochs with man-made waterways and during it's construction, provided much needed employment to those struggling after the Highland Clearances.
Nowadays the area is frequented by pleasure craft and outdoor enthusiasts with options to walk, cycle or canoe along the alluring setting of the canal.
After my week travelling it's length from Inverness to Banavie near Fort William I can confidently say that Caledonian Discovery have devised a unique Classic Cruise that provides a rewarding Highland adventure by land and water which really gets you off the beaten track to uncover the hidden gems away from the tourist traps.
'Options' becomes a familiar word during the trip. While you could choose to stay on board and watch the world go by for a week, you really would be missing out on immersing yourself in the variety of landscape that Scotland has to offer. Daily 'options' are weather dependent but include a mix of sailing, canoeing, cycling and walking which are suitable for all levels of fitness and experience (or lack of experience!).
We had barely motored out of Inverness on day 1 when we were confronted with our first 'options' and I chose to leave the city behind on a flat 5 mile cycle along the canal towpath before meeting up with the barge again at the next lock.
Rust tinted trees and frosty cobwebs lined my route, a constant reminder that autumn had arrived. The traffic noise from Inverness gradually began to fade away, replaced by the occasional put-put of a passing boat and a sense of escape from the urban hustle and bustle began to wash over me. Pedaling casually along the canal-side, my anticipation of a new adventure ahead increased with each rotation of the wheel and by the time I had reached our destination for the night at Dochgarroch Lock I was looking forward to settling into my new home for the week.
As a Glaswegian I'm meant to hold some historic inter-city rivalry towards Edinburgh which apparently all started over a loaf of bread several hundred years ago, however I'm quite comfortable to admit that this Weegie is a big fan of Scotland's capital and it's baked goods!
Separated by less than an hour on the train, I have made the journey to 'Auld Reekie' countless times over the years and still get over excited every time the train pulls into Waverley Station and I catch the first glimpse of the Castle towering overhead.
When London City Airport invited me to post some of my unfiltered images of Edinburgh for their #NoFilter project, I was keen to take part and share some of the things that make Edinburgh special for me and some tips on how best to capture the authentic natural beauty of the city. I should point out that I'm not a photographer and I took all these images on my Panasonic Lumix, which proves you don't need training or an expensive camera to take a good shot.
You can find out more about the innovative #NoFilter campaign to showcase unedited images of European cities here.
What I love about Edinburgh
The Royal Mile and the Old Town
When I visit Edinburgh I am technically a tourist and like most tourists I am inevitably drawn to the bustling Royal Mile and the historic Old Town. The Royal Mile runs from the magnificent Edinburgh Castle to the splendid Palace of Holyroodhouse and is lined with an eclectic mix of shops, pubs, restaurants and attractions.
Venture in to the many darkened closes and mysterious wynds that lie concealed between the 21st Century businesses and you quite literally feel like you have stepped back in time. Look out for the close names above the maze like passages which are associated with their former use or a notable resident.
When I visit Edinburgh I love nothing more than spending a day exploring the hidden history of the Old Town and of course enjoying a dram or two at the characterful pubs along the way!
#NoFilter Tip - Take time to think about the composition of an image. Move your camera around, zoom in and out and only press the button when you're happy that your subject is nicely framed.
The Street Performers
The Edinburgh Fringe Festival takes places every August and is the largest arts festival in the world. The Royal Mile is taken over by a sea of tourists and global street performers demonstrating their craft. From living statues and fire acts to break-dancers and magicians, you could easily spend a whole day mesmerised by the mind boggling and often strange talents that some people make a living from.
If you can't make the Festival then you can still enjoy the many street performers that have taken to entertaining the people of Edinburgh on a year round basis. However, this is Scotland, and as impressive as their skills may be, I've yet to see an act that is as popular as a kilted bagpiper!
#NoFilter Tip - Street performers can make great subjects and for a small donation they will happily pose for that perfect photo.
The Story Behind the Details
When exploring the Old Town it is easy to be swept along in the tourist buzz and miss the smaller details hiding in plain view. Every now and then I like to just pause and fully take in my surroundings, it's amazing what historic features start to pop out between the people and the modern street furniture. In these details you can find the stories of the ordinary people and their everyday life in Old Town Edinburgh which in my opinion is even more fascinating than the stories of the grander attractions that punctuate each end of the Royal Mile.
The image below is of the Netherbow Wellhead and until 1820 stone wellheads like this were the only way that thousands of local residents could access water and were a great place to meet and exchange gossip.
By the 1780s the population of the city had grown so much that the system was unable to cope and the water was only turned on from midnight for three hours, this caused queues and fights and those with money would pay water caddies to save them getting up during the night.
This is just one of many stories that can be uncovered by paying that extra little bit of attention to the details.
#NoFilter Tip - Don't just take the obvious shot, look for the smaller, interesting details
There are many things that I love about the Scottish Highlands but the inevitable summer midge invasion is not one of them! Those that have experienced the swarm of the Scottish midge will know how ferocious these tiny biting terrors can be, those that haven't may wonder how such a minuscule flying beastie can be so feared.
As I booked my summer holiday in the midge hotspot of the NW Scottish Highlands this year I gratefully accepted an offer from Pyramid Travel Products to try out their midge protection range, FYI t-shirts telling them to F**k Off don't work!
A Scottish business with considerable practical and scientific expertise in global travel and developing products that protect against insect and water-borne diseases, they are a small but innovative company.
I tried three of their products, offering various degrees of protection and suitable for different occasions. Over my holidays I developed a 3 step plan and here is how I used their products.
1. Repel Midge
This is a spray on lotion which can be applied direct to exposed parts of the skin as per instructions.
When midges are out in force I find sprays are a bit limited as to where you can apply them and how long they last, not to mention that it is easy to miss bits so I personally prefer to keep covered with a long sleeve top and trousers.
I mainly used the spray on the back of my hands and it seemed to work as promised as my hands were bite free.
Our latest #Scotlanders campaign involved promoting some of our beautiful Scottish islands. As I live on the Isle of Bute, this is where I started my island adventure and it was a great opportunity for me to showcase some of the gems that my home has to offer. I decided to focus on some of the fantastic free things to do and show that you don't have to spend lots of money to have a great holiday.
I spent a day tweeting about some of the amazing beaches, history, wildlife, culture and walking that Bute has to offer, using the hashtag #ButeforFree and our campaign hashtag #Isleathon.
However, I am well aware that not everyone is on Twitter and I wanted to share my tips with anyone thinking about visiting the island so I have decided to put them all together on this special blog post.
I hope you find my recommendations useful and inspiring and if you have any suggestions of your own leave a comment below or tweet me @ScotAdventures and I will happily share them :-)
14 FREE things to do on the Isle of Bute in Tweets!
My latest #SYHAdventure may only have involved a journey of less than 55 miles but I assure you that it is a road-trip that should be on every Scotland travel bucket list and is up there with any adventure!
The SYHA in Torridon stands nestled between the water of Upper Loch Torridon and the foot of the mighty Liathach, rated by many climbers and hill-walkers as Scotland's finest mountain. As this was my third #SYHAdventure I was getting used to the fact that Scottish Youth Hostels are inevitably situated in some of the most dramatic and awe-inspiring locations in Scotland and Torridon didn't fail to live up to my new high expectations.
With an outdoor paradise on the doorstep it was tempting to lace up my boots and venture off on my usual walking expeditions but I had an even bigger temptation on this excursion and it involved jumping behind the wheel and heading off on a road-trip.
Despite only being officially launched 2 months ago, the North Coast 500 has been creating a huge buzz in the global travelsphere and has already been listed as one of the top coastal road-trips in the world by Travel Now magazine and has been dubbed Scotland's own Route 66.
Split into 6 route sections, Torridon SYHA very handily sits midway along the Wester Ross segment and makes an ideal base for those undertaking this breathtaking and adrenaline pumping section, as this part of the route encompasses the notorious Bealach Na Ba (pronounced Bay-Lach-Na-Ba and means Pass of the Cattle).
WHAT TO DO IN TORRIDON
I started my adventure in the pretty little village of Torridon which is dwarfed by some spectacularly huge mountains and sits on the edge of Loch Torridon. It would be easy to drive through thinking that such a small place might not have much to offer but looks can be deceiving and delve a little deeper and you will find plenty to keep you occupied.
The modern community centre has a surprisingly large display of local arts and crafts for sale, in fact it is one of the best ranges of handmade Scottish products that I have found anywhere outside of a craft market and an ideal place to pick up an authentic souvenir of your trip while supporting the local economy.
Torridon sea tours offer a range of excursions from the nearby village of Sheildaig which take you wildlife spotting on half-day trips around the loch or full-day adventures to some of the remote isles.
The nearby Torridon Inn not only serves delicious local produce but offers bike hire and an assortment of outdoor activities including canoeing, archery, rock climbing and gorge scrambling. If that's not enough to keep you busy then the walking options, wildlife watching and dramatic scenery will!
I stayed in one of the dog friendly private rooms at the Youth Hostel and although not en-suite it did have it's own sink and was clean and comfortable. After travelling for more than a week it was great to make use of the washing and drying facilities and to finally have a choice of fresh, clean clothes.
A large well equipped self catering kitchen allows easy cooking and a choice of heat your own meals are available to purchase in case you didn't realise that rather surprisingly there are no supermarkets in the remote Highlands!
The social interaction is one thing I have really enjoyed on my SYHA trips and finding out what has brought my fellow hostelers to the area. In Torridon I was surprised at the mix of nationalities and found out most of them were also there on a scenic Highland road-trip or cycling adventure.
As Torridon SYHA has an alcohol licence and two panoramic lounges where you can relax and watch the wildlife and landscape, there is every reason to spend your evening chilling out there. However, for those wanting to eat out or venture to the pub, I highly recommend the nearby Torridon Inn which is also dog friendly.
I drove anti-clockwise along the coastal road from Torridon following the breathtaking route to Applecross before negotiating the steep and sharp narrow curves of Bealach Na Ba, an unmissable driving experience although not for the faint-hearted!
My first stop was at the village of Shieldaig which dates back to 1800 and and is mainly comprised of a row of pretty whitewashed cottages sitting on the shore of Loch Shieldaig. A short distance out in the loch rises the distinctive Sheildaig Island, clad in Scots pine trees and home to a pair of nesting sea eagles. A birders paradise, look out for a thoughtful set of binoculars fixed on the shore allowing you to zoom in for a close up.
The best views of the village, island and loch are definitely from further along the road as it rises up the hillside and the little cottages shrink to toy size!
As you travel further along the route look out for the well photographed cottage with the red roof and try not to be too envious of their view!
A couple of weeks ago I found myself exploring an enchanting Kingdom where a Prince met his now Princess before they married and went off to live happily ever after. It may sound like I had entered the pages of a fairy-tale but such a place actually exists and you too can live the Royal romantic dream on the idyllic east coast of Scotland. The Kingdom of Fife is where Prince Wills wooed the now Princess Kate while they attended university in St Andrews and the rest is of course history...
Along with my own Prince Charming I spent the weekend testing the region's romantic credentials on the latest Scotlanders campaign and found that reality is even better than fairy-tale fantasy. Being accompanied by your own Prince or Princess is optional, after all it is also the place that you could meet that special someone as Kate and Wills can testify! Whether you are a coupledom or still waiting to be swept off your feet, here are my 10 romantic reasons why you too should visit Scotland's own fairy-tale Kingdom...
1. The secluded hideaway in the woods
Our fairy-tale weekend began as all good fairy-tales do in a secluded hideaway in the woods. However, this was no ordinary woodland retreat but a rather pretty snowdrop tent on Cambo Estate near St Andrews with it’s own double bed and just the right dose of rustic charm.
This is true glamorous camping with cosy furnishings, cooking facilities and access to a modern toilet block with your own private shower, luxury indeed! In the evening the leafy pathways glow with fairy-lights and your own fire pit provides enough heat to keep warm while you sit and savor an evening under the stars.
Cambo Estate is perfect for a romantic stroll with it's walled gardens, nature trails and pathway to the beach, all on your little canvas doorstep.
2. The surprise supplies
A surprise box of welcome goodies and local produce from the lovely folk at Holiday Essentials ensured that we wouldn't go hungry during our stay; the handmade ceramic heart and love themed candle were thoughtful little romantic inclusions. They must be mind readers as our generous bounty included a bottle of one of my favourite Cairn o’Mohr wines and the yummy selection of sweet treats and savoury staples were ideal choices to keep our hunger pangs at bay.
3. The theatre culture
I don't know about you but I do love a night at the theatre and The Byre Theatre in St Andrews is one of my favourites in Scotland, it has such a nice ambiance and it became my second home when I was blogging for StAnza earlier this year. On this occasion we enjoyed a pre-theatre buffet dinner and a performance of Shirley Valentine in the perfectly proportioned auditorium. If you are ever visiting the town I highly recommend checking out their events list as the shows are great value and the atmosphere is intimate and relaxed.
4. The local whisky
The following morning I met up with my fellow Scotlanders for an early start at the recently opened Kingsbarns Distillery which is handily placed next door to Cambo Estate. After a quick catch up over some delicious fresh scones and coffee we were treated to a tour by Douglas Clement, the visionary behind this Fife ‘Dream to Dram’ project.
Whisky is definitely an ingredient I would normally include in any romantic celebration, however my driving duties for the day meant that I sadly couldn't indulge on this occasion. Although I reluctantly had to turn down the offer of some free drams, the passionate tour provided by Douglas and the picture postcard setting were still great tasters which have left me with several reasons to return.
5. The stunning scenery
Picture postcard is an overused term that I try to avoid but look it up in the dictionary and don't be surprised if an image of the Fife coast pops up! It really is the definition of scenic with colourful, quaint fishing villages, sparkling blue water, patchwork golden fields, magnificent sandy stretches and dramatic historic architecture. Undertake a coastal road-trip and you should expect it to take at least twice as long as planned with every twist and turn bringing new photogenic opportunities and the fresh salty tang in the breeze drawing you into the seaside communities in search of the catch of the day.
There's nothing like going on a Scottish road-trip, cruising over hills, along coasts and through glens. However, if you are one of the growing number of electric vehicle owners wanting to take off on a journey along the highways and byways of Scotland you might have to plan a bit more carefully. particularly when it comes to finding accommodation as few overnight stops currently provide the facility to charge your vehicle.
For those wanting to seek out the delights of Edinburgh and the surrounding area you will be pleased to know that you can now make use of new free twin charging points at The Edinburgh Marriott, handily situated near the city airport.
Having no experience of the logistics of taking an electric vehicle on such a road-trip, I was intrigued to take up an invite to stay at the hotel with the use of an electric car to explore the area during my stay and find out just how far I could go on battery power.
Here is how my 2 days went...
The Edinburgh Marriot is a large and functional hotel mainly used for business travel, coach tours, corporate events and airport stopovers. As you would expect from this size and type of hotel it has facilities such as a leisure club with swimming pool, business suites, beauty salon and hairdresser.
The rooms are more functional than luxury although they provide all the extras you would need. A couple of nice touches I appreciated were the sculpted swan towels on the bed (a dying art in my opinion!) and rather nice L'Occitane toiletries. Unfortunately WiFi is only free in public areas with a charge applied to access it from the bedroom, not ideal for someone like me who needs frequent online access.
I stayed in one of the deluxe bedrooms which had a huge and comfy bed and after a good nights sleep I enjoyed a tasty breakfast from a large buffet selection. I can also highly recommend the bar snacks as the pork belly bites were totally delicious!
My Nissan Leaf vehicle was provided by eCorporate Travel, who offer a professional and discreet 'green' chauffeur service, based in Edinburgh Their concept is to provide environmentally sustainable travel at competitive prices and after chatting to them I was impressed at how passionate they are about their business and their vision to provide a more environmentally friendly travel service, something we should all be embracing.
After some quick tuition in driving and charging the vehicle I was ready to set off on my first electric adventure in my silent, green machine!
Where did I go?
The Edinburgh Marriott is situated on the outskirts of Scotland's historic capital and this is a bonus if you are driving and don't relish the thought of navigating the one way streets or rush hour traffic going in and out of the city centre, not to mention finding an affordable parking space! With plenty of free parking and sitting next to the city bypass, this is ideal accommodation for those wanting to explore the gems that surround Edinburgh.
With over 100 miles of charge and the sun shining I was firstly drawn towards Edinburgh's own coastal suburb and a proper Scottish road-trip to visit the seaside delights of Portobello Beach. A 32 mile round trip wasn't too much of a drain on the battery, however I found it easy and convenient to top it up in the hotel car park whilst I checked in to my room and planned my next adventure.
On the second day I again opted to avoid the hustle and bustle of the city and made my way to Castlelaw Iron Age Hillfort in the Pentland Hills near Penicuik. At just over 10 miles from the hotel this makes an interesting alternative to the historic city centre attractions. There are also walking routes for those wanting to explore more of the outdoors and I highly recommend heading a few miles along the road to visit the famous Rosslyn Chapel while you are in the area.
Can it really be 20 years since the cry of 'Freedom' echoed in cinemas across the globe? Apparently so (which makes me feel quite old!) and two decades later Braveheart continues to inspire people to uncover the facts from the fiction of the legendary William Wallace and how he rose to become Scotland's National Hero.
Most people interested in this era of Scottish history make their way to Stirling and the area of his most famous victory at the Battle of Stirling Bridge.
Shadowing over the battlefield is the volcanic outcrop of Abbey Craig with the National Wallace Monument pointedly rising a further 220ft skywards. Erected in the 1860s to commemorate one of the most recognised figures from Scotland's past, it is currently also commemorating the film that helped create international awareness of his story.
I went along to one of their special free events that are running throughout 2015 with costumed actors and historians taking you back to one of the most dramatic periods in Scottish history as they tell tales from the battlefield and stories about the man himself.
I really enjoyed the 'Scotland's National Hero' talk and it provided an entertaining insight into the life of William Wallace before I embarked on the 246 monument steps to observe the landscape that was so significant not just during the time of Wallace but also for hundreds of years previous.
Constructed with money from a fundraising campaign and designed by the Scottish architect John Thomas Rochead, the monument is based on a combination of a traditional Scottish tower house castle with a stone crown spire on the top.
Today you can follow the spiral stone staircase and the story of the famous Scottish warrior at the various floors with exhibitions as you climb upwards, be sure to stop at the Hall of Heroes where you will see the famous Wallace sword on display, said to have been used by him during battle! It also includes busts of some of Scotland's other notable figures including Sir Walter Scott and King Robert the Bruce.
Just when you think that your staircase workout is never going to end, you step out into the crown and are rewarded with impressive 360 degree sweeping views spreading into the distance. Look out for Stirling Castle, perched on another volcanic outcrop before you, the Ochil hills stretching in the other direction and of course the looping river that played a vital role in the victory for the Scots at the Battle of Stirling Bridge.
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