One of my favourite things about the Isle of Bute is the choice and diversity of beaches. Compared to its Firth of Clyde island neighbours, Arran and Cumbrae, the sandy bays and sheltered coves on Bute are far prettier in my opinion. Oh, and I should add that even on a sunny day, on most of the beaches mentioned, you are unlikely to encounter many other people which makes them even more appealing!
Another great thing about Bute is the accessibility of the coast as the road follows close to the shoreline around much of the island. Regularly placed benches, numerous parking bays and way-marked walks allow you to easily enjoy a variety of seaside scenery at your own pace. It always amazes me that despite its proximity to Glasgow, Bute is often overlooked as a holiday destination. Once extremely popular as an escape from the city, it has fallen out of favour over recent times. However, if you are looking for an easy Scottish island escape with some lovely coastline then Bute ticks the boxes. Below is a list of my favourite Isle of Bute beaches, some are classic sandy affairs while I've picked others for their scenic setting. I have also included some additional points of interest and history to help you get the most out of your visit. Ettrick Bay
Ettrick Bay is the most popular beach on Bute, however even on the hottest of days you will still have plenty of space to sunbathe, paddle and even swim if that's your thing. It is a classic golden sweep of sand, stretching for about 1 mile along the west coast of the island. Being on the west coast, is is also a great spot for watching the sunset behind the Kintyre Peninsula.
There are car parks at either end, with a popular tearoom located at the north end, while the south end is popular for overnight camper van parking. Just along from the car park at the south end is a bird hide which is a great place to watch the many seabirds that frequent Bute. Rewind to the Edwardian era and a tram would convey excited holidaymakers from Rothesay to Ettrick Bay. Today, you can walk part of the old tram line on a marked walk between St Colmac's Church and the tearoom. It is hard to imagine now, but the beach was once bustling with hundreds of visitors and over the last couple of centuries has witnessed horse races, sand-castle competitions, donkey rides, entertainment shows and dances. At times thousands of people gathered here to watch major events. Today, it is a much quieter place, much like the whole island, but when it comes to finding space to stretch out on the beach, fewer people can be a definite bonus. Scalpsie Bay
Scalpsie Bay is personally my favourite beach on the Isle of Bute. A short walk from the car park leads to an expanse of sand which feels a little wilder and quieter than Ettrick Bay. The views across to Arran and the Holy Isle are just one of the reasons that this west coast beach is more appealing to me.
However, the main reason I have spent many an hour here is the colony of over 200 seals which can frequently be seen basking on the rocks at the north end. Providing you are quiet and don't disturb them, it is possible to get within a reasonable distance of the seals which is an amazing wildlife experience. There are plenty of rocks where you can sit and watch their antics as they playfully splash and swim just off the shoreline. When you first reach the beach, you might notice some distinctive wooden posts in the sand which were designed as anti-glider defences during WWII. The cottage close to the car park was also used as a listening post for enemy submarines. Drive further past the car park to the top of the hill for a great viewpoint over Scalpsie Bay which you can enjoy from the enclosed picnic benches. Glencallum BaySituated in 5 acres of ground overlooking the surrounding countryside, The Dryfesdale Country House Hotel in Lockerbie is a welcoming place to relax. I recently stayed for the purposes of a review and found my Garden Suite, with its own patio, the ideal hotel solution for those that covet some outdoor space. ABOUT The Dryfesdale Country House Hotel is part of the Best Western portfolio although it is privately owned with a distinctive individual personality. The hotel building originally dates back to 1762 when it served as a Church Manse. In 1953 it began a new life as a hotel and in recent years it has undergone major refurbishment by the current owners, the Wright family, although some character features have been retained. The hotel now offers 29 bedrooms, private function rooms and the Kirkhill Bar and Brasserie. The extensive surrounding grounds and long beech lined drive, provide the feeling that you are firmly in the country as soon as you arrive. In fact you are actually only a few minutes drive from the main A74 road which connects with Carlisle, making this a convenient base for exploring both the south of Scotland and the north of England. One of the highlights of my stay was the friendliness of the staff. The welcome I received and the customer service was exemplary, making guests feel at home seemed to be a real priority. I could often overhear staff chatting away with other guests, asking about their day with genuine interest. It sounded more like old friends catching up and the guests did seem to appreciate the personal attention. It is nice to stay in a hotel that not only has relaxing surroundings but also a homely atmosphere and I did feel it was a place I would like to stay at for a little longer next time. ACCOMMODATION I stayed in one of spacious Garden Suites which sit in their own little extension and come with a small patio space. As it was a warm and dry day, I couldn't wait to slide open the doors and let the room fill with fresh air and the sound of birdsong. I've never stayed in a hotel room where I could bring the outside in like this before and it was a real treat. Rather than lie back on the bed and watch the massive TV or chill out on the couch, I opted to make myself a coffee and sit outside. I might even have stepped in and out several times just because I could! Having this outdoors extension meant I could stroll around the surrounding gardens and take in the views of the hills in the distance without wandering too far from my room. I think you can tell how much I loved the outdoor freedom but you're probably wondering about the other facilities in the room, so I'll fill you in... READ MY DUMFRIES AND GALLOWAY BLOG POSTS TO FIND OUT WHAT THERE IS TO SEE AND DO IN THE LOCAL AREA The Auldgirth Inn has recently undergone a contemporary makeover while still retaining some of its original charm. This new chapter in its fascinating history has seen it transformed in to the kind of accommodation that feels more like a destination rather than part of a journey. I recently stayed for the purposes of a review and although I think you should visit for the location, you should definitely stay for the food... LOCATION The Auldgirth Inn is only a 15 minute drive from the busy town of Dumfries and sits just off the main A76 road, yet it still has a country charm. Reachable in under 90 minutes from Glasgow and 2 hours from Edinburgh, it is near enough for a short break, yet far enough to feel like a proper escape from the city. There are some nice walks on the doorstep and I personally enjoyed a little stroll across the road to the picturesque old bridge. Fans of Robert Burns will be in their element as the poet spent the latter years of his life living in the area and being inspired by the scenery. Just over 2 miles away is Ellisland Farm where he lived for several years and wrote some of his finest work. In Dumfries itself you can follow a Burns trail which includes the house he spent his final years and eventually died in. If you have been following me for a while, you will probably know my love for Dumfries and Galloway already. It is such an underrated but rewarding region and I have already written quite a few blog posts about things to do in the area which should give you plenty of ideas on how to fill your time. HISTORY
I've no doubt that Rabbie would have enjoyed a few libations at The Auldgirth Inn, which would have been his local pub back in his days at Ellisland Farm. However, with 500 years of history under its belt, I'm sure the inn has also welcomed many an interesting traveller with a story to tell over the centuries. The lounge is the perfect place to sit with a dram by the fire and let your imagination run wild about the previous guests that may have frequented the inn. Until recently, the last major refurbishment of the inn was in 1804, and in 1971 Historic Environment Scotland gave the building a Category B listing. In the last couple of years it has undergone a modern face lift thanks to new owner Robert McAleese who has put Auldgirth firmly back on the local map. I was recently relayed a surprising story from an accommodation provider who had asked two of his guests how they had enjoyed their holiday on Orkney. He was a bit taken aback when they exclaimed that they hadn't and assumed they must have had a negative experience which spoiled their vacation. However, it turned out it was Orkney itself that they had an adverse reaction to, specifically all the 'shrines to dead people', apparently they preferred places that 'celebrate the living'. This story surprised me for two reasons, firstly because I think the majority of people that visit Orkney are well aware that the islands are famous for their abundant historic and archaeological sites. I think it would even be fair to say that many people come here because of the preserved sacred ancient monuments that housed the dead. I was also surprised as they must have been oblivious to the 22,000+ people that are currently in the land of the living and call Orkney home. In fact, as Scottish islands go, the community and population of Orkney is very much alive. Just a glance at the Orcadian newspaper or posters in shop windows will provide you with a wide selection of local events which also welcome visitors. So where else can visitors go if they want to experience present day life on the Orkney Islands? The Creative Trail is a fantastic celebration of contemporary artists who welcome visitors to their workshops and studios. Although many of them are continuing a tradition, they very much represent modern day Orkney. These are not living museums, they are places where you can experience Orcadian life in the present.
I recently spent a day driving through some beautiful island scenery and stopping by to chat with some of the many artists on the trail. Without fail, I received a warm welcome from each maker or designer who enthusiastically educated me on their craft. I even enjoyed some cups of tea and biscuits to sustain me on my journey. All in all it was a very sociable day and proof that there is more to Orkney than notable relics. Visiting the businesses is an interesting excursion in itself, however combining a visit with a local attraction can make a unique and varied day out so I've also included some nearby suggestions. Each business provided me their recommendation and I've also added in my own favourites too. These are the stops I made, however, there are many more makers you can visit. They are all listed on The Creative Trail website or look out for the brown tourist signs as you travel around. |
Follow my Scotland travel adventures on social media
If you have found my blog useful and would like to support me in creating future Scottish travel content, you can by me a coffee on my Ko-fi page. All 'coffee' donations are hugely appreciated
|