Rothesay is the main town on the Isle of Bute and also the place that, until last year, I called home for the previous 5 years. The town has lots to offer day trippers and holidaymakers will find it an ideal base for exploring the rest of the island. To help make the most of your time, I've put together a list of my recommended things to do in Rothesay below.
The town is famous as a once thriving seaside resort, particularly for Glaswegians who would head 'doon the watter' to Bute for their holidays. Like many British seaside resorts, package holidays to sunnier climes brought about a downturn in the economy.
Today it suffers from a bit of an identity crisis. While some tired looking premises rely on nostalgia to survive, a host of new local businesses catering for a quality driven generation of travellers have opened in recent years.
Rothesay can be reached in just over 90 minutes from Glasgow, making it one of the most accessible island escapes in Scotland. The ferry to Bute leaves from Wemyss Bay on the mainland and for those not wanting to drive, a train runs directly to Wemyss Bay from Glasgow Central Station.
The Isle of Bute has many more attractions worth visiting outside of the main town but I'll tackle them in a future blog post. For now, this article hopefully provides plenty of inspiration and options for those wondering what to do in Rothesay.
If you're up early, you might just catch a 'buteiful' Rothesay sunrise
One of my favourite things about the Isle of Bute is the choice and diversity of beaches. Compared to its Firth of Clyde island neighbours, Arran and Cumbrae, the sandy bays and sheltered coves on Bute are far prettier in my opinion. Oh, and I should add that even on a sunny day, on most of the beaches mentioned, you are unlikely to encounter many other people which makes them even more appealing!
Another great thing about Bute is the accessibility of the coast as the road follows close to the shoreline around much of the island. Regularly placed benches, numerous parking bays and way-marked walks allow you to easily enjoy a variety of seaside scenery at your own pace.
It always amazes me that despite its proximity to Glasgow, Bute is often overlooked as a holiday destination. Once extremely popular as an escape from the city, it has fallen out of favour over recent times. However, if you are looking for an easy Scottish island escape with some lovely coastline then Bute ticks the boxes.
Below is a list of my favourite Isle of Bute beaches, some are classic sandy affairs while I've picked others for their scenic setting. I have also included some additional points of interest and history to help you get the most out of your visit.
Ettrick Bay is the most popular beach on Bute, however even on the hottest of days you will still have plenty of space to sunbathe, paddle and even swim if that's your thing. It is a classic golden sweep of sand, stretching for about 1 mile along the west coast of the island. Being on the west coast, is is also a great spot for watching the sunset behind the Kintyre Peninsula.
There are car parks at either end, with a popular tearoom located at the north end, while the south end is popular for overnight camper van parking. Just along from the car park at the south end is a bird hide which is a great place to watch the many seabirds that frequent Bute.
Rewind to the Edwardian era and a tram would convey excited holidaymakers from Rothesay to Ettrick Bay. Today, you can walk part of the old tram line on a marked walk between St Colmac's Church and the tearoom.
It is hard to imagine now, but the beach was once bustling with hundreds of visitors and over the last couple of centuries has witnessed horse races, sand-castle competitions, donkey rides, entertainment shows and dances. At times thousands of people gathered here to watch major events. Today, it is a much quieter place, much like the whole island, but when it comes to finding space to stretch out on the beach, fewer people can be a definite bonus.
Scalpsie Bay is personally my favourite beach on the Isle of Bute. A short walk from the car park leads to an expanse of sand which feels a little wilder and quieter than Ettrick Bay. The views across to Arran and the Holy Isle are just one of the reasons that this west coast beach is more appealing to me.
However, the main reason I have spent many an hour here is the colony of over 200 seals which can frequently be seen basking on the rocks at the north end. Providing you are quiet and don't disturb them, it is possible to get within a reasonable distance of the seals which is an amazing wildlife experience. There are plenty of rocks where you can sit and watch their antics as they playfully splash and swim just off the shoreline.
When you first reach the beach, you might notice some distinctive wooden posts in the sand which were designed as anti-glider defences during WWII. The cottage close to the car park was also used as a listening post for enemy submarines.
Drive further past the car park to the top of the hill for a great viewpoint over Scalpsie Bay which you can enjoy from the enclosed picnic benches.
If you had asked me a few weeks ago what there is to do in and around Moffat, my meagre offering would only have extended to the Grey Mare's Tail Nature Reserve and the Woollen Mill, although personally I would give the Woollen Mill a miss unless you enjoy outdated tourist outlets which primarily cater for multiple coach parties.
This is shameful on my part as I pride myself on knowing most parts of Scotland reasonably well and I have travelled pretty extensively around most other areas of Dumfries and Galloway, a region that I have a real soft spot for. However, for some reason Moffat had fallen under my radar until recently. This is despite the fact that I visited frequently as a child and have happy memories of walks among the green, rolling hills. Perhaps more recent memories of coach stops at the aforementioned woollen mill are responsible for not leaving me with a burning desire to return to the town!
Thankfully, I was encouraged to factor Moffat in to my recent travel plans thanks to Susan Barker, who invited me to stay at her lovely Victorian guesthouse, Dell-Mar, (details below) and revisit the town with a fresh local perspective. During my short stay I only managed to scratch the surface of all the things there are to do in Moffat and the surrounding area so will definitely need to return. However, I did fit in quite a few things during my trip and combined with some of the nearby places that I've visited previously, I've put together this list of my recommended things to do which you will be happy to hear now exceeds my previous single suggestion!
Things to do in and around the town of Moffat
EXPLORE MOFFAT TOWN CENTRE
With free parking and a plentiful offering of independent businesses, including shops and cafes, Moffat High Street is a joy to explore. Many of the buildings have retained their historic character which adds to its attractive appeal. Some places of note to look out for as you walk around include Moffat Museum, the famous Moffat Toffee Shop, the Star Hotel (see below for more info) and the Moffat Ram, a bronze sculpture which sits on top of a fountain.
The sculpture was commissioned in 1875 to celebrate the town's long association with sheep farming and the wool trade. The sculptor of the ram was William Brodie who is probably best known for another of his statues, Greyfriars Bobby in Edinburgh. If you look closely, you will see that the ram has no ears, a mistake that was publicly pointed out at the unveiling ceremony to the rather embarrassed Brodie!
VISIT THE WORLD'S NARROWEST HOTEL
Officially recognised by the Guinness Book of World Records - The Famous Star Hotel, which dates back to the late 1700s, is the narrowest hotel in the world. It is a mere 20 ft wide although thanks to its height and length it manages to pack in 8 en-suite bedrooms, 2 bars and a restaurant.
The distinctive tall, narrow building is found on the High Street and visiting it is a unique experience that should be on your Scotland bucket-list.
Situated in 5 acres of ground overlooking the surrounding countryside, The Dryfesdale Country House Hotel in Lockerbie is a welcoming place to relax. I recently stayed for the purposes of a review and found my Garden Suite, with its own patio, the ideal hotel solution for those that covet some outdoor space.
The Dryfesdale Country House Hotel is part of the Best Western portfolio although it is privately owned with a distinctive individual personality. The hotel building originally dates back to 1762 when it served as a Church Manse. In 1953 it began a new life as a hotel and in recent years it has undergone major refurbishment by the current owners, the Wright family, although some character features have been retained. The hotel now offers 29 bedrooms, private function rooms and the Kirkhill Bar and Brasserie.
The extensive surrounding grounds and long beech lined drive, provide the feeling that you are firmly in the country as soon as you arrive. In fact you are actually only a few minutes drive from the main A74 road which connects with Carlisle, making this a convenient base for exploring both the south of Scotland and the north of England.
One of the highlights of my stay was the friendliness of the staff. The welcome I received and the customer service was exemplary, making guests feel at home seemed to be a real priority. I could often overhear staff chatting away with other guests, asking about their day with genuine interest. It sounded more like old friends catching up and the guests did seem to appreciate the personal attention.
It is nice to stay in a hotel that not only has relaxing surroundings but also a homely atmosphere and I did feel it was a place I would like to stay at for a little longer next time.
I stayed in one of spacious Garden Suites which sit in their own little extension and come with a small patio space. As it was a warm and dry day, I couldn't wait to slide open the doors and let the room fill with fresh air and the sound of birdsong. I've never stayed in a hotel room where I could bring the outside in like this before and it was a real treat.
Rather than lie back on the bed and watch the massive TV or chill out on the couch, I opted to make myself a coffee and sit outside. I might even have stepped in and out several times just because I could! Having this outdoors extension meant I could stroll around the surrounding gardens and take in the views of the hills in the distance without wandering too far from my room.
I think you can tell how much I loved the outdoor freedom but you're probably wondering about the other facilities in the room, so I'll fill you in...
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