Orkney played a vital role in both World Wars and the vast number of wartime structures that litter the landscape are testament to this fact.  Its importance was mainly thanks to a body of water named Scapa Flow, a sheltered natural harbour surrounded by many of the Orkney Islands.  It is also ideally situated for guarding the North Sea and these factors contributed to Scapa Flow being chosen as the main base for the Royal Navy fleet during both World Wars.  The protection of the fleet was a priority and this led to numerous coastal defences and batteries being built on the islands, some of which I recently visited on the wartime themed itinerary detailed below. 

Unfortunately there were many local wartime casualties, including a combined total of over 1600 lives lost from attacks on HMS Hampshire and HMS Pheasant during the First World War, and HMS Royal Oak during the Second World War.  A tragic accident on board HMS Vanguard during the First World War also resulted in over 800 lives lost and the death of the first civilian through enemy action during the Second World War also took place on Orkney when James Isbister was killed in Stenness.  

When I first visited Orkney I wasn't fully aware of how much the present day island life had been shaped by this dark period.  After following this 1 day itinerary I felt a greater appreciation of the local impact and legacy left by this significant era of history.  Tales of horror, hope and human spirit were intertwined in all the places that I visited. 

ABOUT THE ITINERARY AND MY ADVICE

​The itinerary is one of several autumn and spring themed day trip ideas that are being introduced by Destination Orkney over the coming months as part of their 'See You at The Weekend' campaign.  I'll be trying them all out so stay tuned for lots more Orkney inspiration from me.

If you intend on following the full Wartime itinerary then I would advise some advance planning as you will need to take in to consideration opening times and book a place on the Ness Battery Tour.  Due to these variables it is unlikely that your route will be exactly the same order as mine.
​
The day is quite intense as there is a lot to do and see but if you're short on time and want to visit all the attractions mentioned then it is doable, just be prepared for a full day out.
Alternatively, you can select a few sites to visit and take your day a bit easier or if you have more time, spread the itinerary out over a couple of days and enjoy it at a more relaxed pace.

I've included a list of the locations below, with a map at the bottom of the page.  I've also provided the approximate minimum time needed to visit (although you could spend much longer at most sites) and some helpful tips at the bottom of each attraction to make your planning as easy as possible - don't say I'm not good to you...

ORKNEY WARTIME ITINERARY LOCATIONS

• Churchill Barriers
• Hoxa Head
• Italian Chapel
• Kitchener Memorial
• Ness Battery
• Stromness Museum

STOP 1

TIME REQUIRED - 5 MINUTES

The Churchill Barriers are a series of 4 causeways that link the 5 islands of Orkney Mainland, Lamb Holm, Glimps Holm, Burray and South Ronaldsay.  Today most people view them as a convenient transport connection and they have certainly opened up local work and tourism opportunities.  Indeed, it is the presence of the barriers that allowed me to travel between the various islands on my 1 day itinerary with ease, yet they are probably the most significant wartime legacy on Orkney. 
​You just have to look beyond the barriers to the rusting remains of ships rising out the water to be reminded of the reason these causeways first came about.  These ships are blockships, deliberately sunk to block the passages between the islands.  Along with submarine nets they formed naval defences designed to stop German U-boats.  However, on 14th October 1939, German U-Boat U-47 managed to pass the blockships at high tide and torpedo HMS Royal Oak which was moored in Scapa Flow.  The battleship sank quickly, with the loss of over 800 lives.

Winston Churchill proceeded to visit Orkney and instructed the building of 4 permanent barriers.  The project was a great feat of engineering as the deep water and tidal currents caused logistical problems.  A shortage of labour force resulted in many Italian prisoners of war being brought to Orkney.  Quarries and infrastructure including rail links and piers also had to be created. 
​Below the smooth tarmacadam surface that exists today, is a massive hidden layer of rocks and concrete.  In fact, 250,000 tons of broken rock set in wire cages and 66,000 cast concrete blocks were used to build the barricades.  
​The work began in May 1940 and was completed in September 1944.  Today, two of the barriers have been listed by Historic Environment Scotland as structures of national importance and a powerful reminder of Orkney's wartime past.

TIPS FOR VISITING

• There is no stopping on the barriers, however there are convenient laybys and viewpoints which provide different perspectives.  Two of the best viewpoints are on the B9052 just after the junction for St Nicholas Kirk and Cemetery and along the A961 on Burray.
• The barriers can get closed in adverse weather

TIME REQUIRED - MINIMUM 45 MINUTES ALTHOUGH YOU COULD SPEND MUCH LONGER

My first proper stop of the morning was on the island of South Ronaldsay, easily reached from Mainland thanks to the previously mentioned Churchill Barriers.  On the west coast of the island, Hoxa Head overlooks the The Sound of Hoxa, one of the main approaches to Scapa Flow.
Extensive coastal batteries were built on the surrounding islands of Flotta and South Ronaldsay to defend this strategic Orkney location and it is here that the substantial ruins of clifftop batteries that were operational during both world wars can still be found.
Coastal defences are a common feature on Orkney but those at Hoxa Head are among the best ones to visit as there is still an extensive amount of structures remaining with evidence of gun emplacements, observation towers, an accommodation camp and more.  I should add that many of the buildings are in a dangerous condition, with some partially collapsed so it is not recommended or advisable to explore inside.

The complex of batteries extends over 700m around the headland and has been listed as a Scheduled Monument.  A battery was first installed here during the First World War which included gun and searchlight emplacements, engine room, shelters, accommodation and observation posts.  At the end of WW1 the battery was decommissioned and the guns sold for scrap, I'm sure in the thinking that they wouldn't be needed so soon after!
With the arrival of another World War, the defences had to be rebuilt, and a second gun battery known as Balfour Battery was constructed and the whole site extended.  Mothballed in 1943, the site was finally abandoned by 1950.  I for one hope we never need defences like this again.

TIPS FOR VISITING

• There is a small car park at the end of the road near to the batteries
• It is approximately a 10 - 15 minute walk from the car park
• Walking boots are recommended
• Entering or climbing on the structures is not advised

STOP 3

TIME REQUIRED - 10 - 20 MINUTES

The Italian Chapel is a building I don't think I'll ever tire of visiting.  I've been several times now and have noticed something new on each occasion.  There is a reason it is one of Orkney's most popular attractions drawing over 100,000 visitors each year.
Essentially the Chapel is constructed from two Nissen huts which have been transformed in to a small but beautifully formed sanctuary.  The building came about after a request from Italian prisoners of war who were captured in North Africa and brought to Orkney to assist with the building of the Churchill Barriers.  Many of them were based at Camp 60 on the island of Lamb Holm and wanted their own place of worship.
The request for a chapel was agreed and the prisoners undertook the construction work and interior decoration during their spare time.  One of the prisoners, Domenico Chiocchetti, was an artist and he was responsible for a large part of the design.  He was assisted by Giuseppe Palumbi, a blacksmith, and Domenico Buttapasta, a cement worker, among many others. 
The Italian Chapel is stunning and a testament to their devotion and talent.  It is hard to believe all the intricate detail was mainly fashioned from scrap material, concrete and some bought items from the prisoners welfare fund.

After the interior was completed, the prisoners started work on the exterior.  Standing before the ornate white facade, there is little evidence that the building actually consists of two very plain Nissen huts.  Head around the side and the back of the chapel to fully appreciate what basic shelters they were working with.
The Italian Chapel was actually only in use for a short period and has been restored and preserved over the years since which I for one am glad of as not many beautiful things rise out of the horror of war.

Since moving to Orkney, I've found myself more and more interested in the Norse heritage of the islands. Unlike many other Scottish places connected with and ruled by the Vikings, it is hard to escape their legacy here.
I was excited to learn that a 1 day Orkney Viking itinerary had been put together by Destination Orkney which includes some of the most significant sites on Mainland. This seemed like the best way for me to start learning more about this era of local history so I set off on a beautiful autumnal Saturday to try the route out for myself. It turned out to be a pretty epic excursion which started on a tidal island and ended on a sea-stack, with a few top notch attractions in-between. It also transpired that visiting these sites outwith the popular summer tourism season meant I had almost every one to myself - result!

By the time I finished, I felt I had gained a much better understanding of the Norse settlers that colonised Orkney, which at one time held a central position in the Viking world.  However, I also discovered that much is still unknown about them, including when exactly they arrived (probably the 8th century) and whether they arrived peacefully or took the land by force.
Whatever the answer to those questions, it is agreed that Norse culture and dominance quickly took over, and it was not until 1468 that Norse rule in Orkney formally came to an end.  Today, evidence of their ​habitation can be found in structures, artefacts, place names and even the Orcadians themselves as DNA tests have shown a significant percentage of islanders have genes that can be traced to Norway.
It is hard not to be drawn in by this intriguing island heritage and if you want to find out more, the Orkney Viking itinerary is definitely a good introduction.

ABOUT THE ITINERARY AND MY ADVICE

The itinerary is one of several autumn and spring themed day trip ideas that are being introduced by Destination Orkney over the coming months as part of their 'See You at The Weekend​' campaign.  I'll be trying them all out so stay tuned for lots more Orkney inspiration from me.

If you intend on following the full Viking itinerary then I would advise some advance planning as you will need to take in to consideration tide times, booking tours and opening hours.  Due to these variables it is unlikely that your route will be exactly the same order as mine.
​
The day is quite intense as there is a lot to do and see but if you're short on time and want to visit all the attractions mentioned then it is doable, just be prepared for a full day out.
Alternatively, you can select a few sites to visit and take your day a bit easier or if you have more time, spread the itinerary out over a couple of days and enjoy it at a more relaxed pace.

I've included a list of the locations below, with a map at the bottom of the page.  I've also provided the approximate minimum time needed to visit (although you could spend much longer at most sites) and some helpful tips at the bottom of each attraction to make your Viking adventure planning as easy as possible - don't say I'm not good to you...

ORKNEY VIKING ITINERARY LOCATIONS​

• Brough of Birsay
• Maeshowe
• Orkney Museum
• St Magnus Cathedral
• Earl's Bu & Round Church
• Orkneyinga Saga Centre
• Brough of Deerness

STOP 1

TIME REQUIRED - MINIMUM 30 MINUTES TO VISIT THE ISLAND + ADDITIONAL 15 MINUTES IF YOU ARE ALSO PLANNING TO VISIT ST MAGNUS CHURCH

My day started off just after sunrise as I made my way across the tidal causeway to reach my first destination, the Brough of Birsay.  Pink skies lit up the island ahead and as always I was full of excited anticipation at the thought of visiting somewhere new.
I actually wasn't sure what to expect when I arrived but I can honestly say the site surpassed my expectations and set a pretty high bar for the rest of the day.  It probably shouldn't have been a surprise that the Brough of Birsay was a special place to explore.  Archaeological excavations here have revealed that this tidal island was a place of power, first for the Picts from the 600s and later the Vikings, who arrived there in the 9th century and developed the Norse settlement over the next 300 years.

It is also thought to have been the home of Earl Thorfinn the Mighty, Orkney's most powerful Earl which would have made it a very important place.  Earl Thorfinn was the grandson of Malcolm II, King of Scots, and during his lifetime in the 11th century he built a kingdom larger than any other Earl of Orkney.  
The settlement is very clear to make out and I loved the fact you can walk around it so freely.  Although it is mainly the foundations that are left, it felt pretty easy to imagine what it would have looked like.  Standing within the living space of Viking houses gave me goosebumps as I imagined who might have called these buildings their home.  Their lives almost felt within touching distance.

The remains of houses, a sauna, blacksmith's workshop and a significant church surrounded by monastic buildings have all been discovered here along with some fascinating artefacts that are now housed in Orkney Museum.  With such a packed itinerary ahead, I couldn't linger here as long as I would have liked but it felt like the perfect introduction to Orkney Viking history.

Back on the mainland I took a walk along to St Magnus Church in the village of Birsay.  There is still some debate as to whether this is located on the foundations of Christ's Kirk built by Earl Thorfinn in 1064.  Although this is widely accepted view, others speculate that Christ's Kirk was located on the Brough of Birsay.
As Christ's Kirk or Christchurch, was the burial place of Earl Thorfinn and also the murdered Earl Magnus (later St Magnus), it plays an important role in Norse history.  Pilgrims visiting the grave of Magnus told stories of 'heavenly lights and a strange fragrance'.  Claims of visions and miracles led to him being declared a saint and his remains exhumed before later being interred in St Magnus Cathedral, which was built in his honour and on my 'to visit' list later in the day.

TIPS FOR VISITING

• The causeway can generally be crossed 2 hours before and 2 hours after low tide
• Tide times are posted in the Birsay car park, can be picked up in the VisitScotland information centre in Kirkwall or checked online at the Met Office website
• The key for the St Magnus Church can be collected at the shop next door.  Its winter opening hours are Monday to Saturday 10 am to 5 pm from October to February

STOP 2

TIME REQUIRED - 90 MINUTES

Maeshowe is probably better associated with Neolithic rather than the Norse chapter of Orkney history.  However it turns out this unassuming green mound is not only one of the finest Neolithic buildings to survive in North West Europe, it is also home to the largest collection of Viking runic inscriptions to survive outside Scandinavia.
The interior of the chambered tomb can only be visited on a guided tour which I had pre-booked, so I made my way to the Historic Scotland visitor centre and joined a small group of fellow sightseers.  After a short bus journey and an easy walk, we bent over and shuffled our way along the gloomy passageway that leads in to the central chamber.

Whenever I write about the Isle of Skye, I try to encourage visitors to look beyond the usual iconic landmarks as the island has so much more to offer.  Although joining one of the Bella Jane boat trips from Elgol to Loch Coruisk is undoubtedly popular, the remote geography of the area means you can easily find a quiet spot to enjoy Skye's wild and dramatic landscape once you arrive at your destination.
On my Scottish west coast road-trip with Red Kite Campers, I wanted to explore a part of the island I'd never visited before so I opted to join a cruise with Bella Jane, one of the local tour companies that run Elgol boat trips.

It's really hard not to fall in love with the scenery of Skye and the views along the road to Elgol are up there with the best in Scotland.  Despite having my Loch Coruisk boat trip booked and a tight schedule to keep, it was impossible for me to drive more than a few miles without a photo stop, much to the annoyance of Mr Adventures Around Scotland.  I mean just look at that backdrop, I defy anyone to resist getting their camera out every 5 minutes! 

This did mean that we pulled up to the car park in Elgol with 5 minutes to spare and I was slightly panicked to find it packed full.  The relatively quiet roads on my journey that morning had made me complacent and I had already forgotten how busy some parts of Skye can be.  Learn from my mistake and give yourself plenty of time!  Thankfully I managed to get a space sorted, checked in and joined my fellow passengers on the pier as the boat prepared to set sail.

As we motored our way to our destination, one of the crew provided some entertaining and informative live commentary as we navigated our way across Loch Scavaig.  The crossing may be short but there is still plenty to see from the open deck.  On one side you pass the neighbouring Isle of Soay, home to only a handful of residents.  Just beyond that lies the Small Isles, with the rugged peaks of Rum and the distinctive form of An Sgùrr on the Isle of Eigg, easy to pick out on the near horizon.  On the opposite side, the remote southwestern coast of Skye rises up to meet you.
Despite opting to live on Scottish islands, I'm not a huge fan of travelling on wee boats and I'll admit to being a bit apprehensive before the journey.  However, it was a surprisingly pleasant crossing and the humerous anecdotes from the crew and dazzling scenery kept everyone entertained and distracted.

If someone had taken my photo as we neared our stopping point, I'm pretty sure my mouth would have been hanging open and my eyes popping out my head!  Sailing in to the inlet of Loch na Cuilce is about as close as you will get in Scotland to feeling like you are entering the belly of Mordor.
Even on a relatively bright day, the towering jagged black peaks were gloomy and foreboding and the water was an otherworldly shade of verdant green.  The occasional seal popped its head out to greet us, while more of the resident colony basked lazily on lumps of rock.  With so much vying for my attention, it was hard to know where to look. 
​Breathtaking can be a cliché when it comes to depicting Scotland's scenery but in this case it is the only word that really does it justice.  I recently read an article on Scottish Anchorages describing this spot as "...without doubt the most dramatic anchorage in the Hebrides" which pretty much sums it up.

Anyone who knows me, knows that Orkney has been on my travel bucket-list for a very long time.  Its fascination for me has much to do with the tapestry of archaeology, layers of preserved heritage and complex relationship history that have helped Orkney achieve an almost mythical status.  Salty sea tales, mysterious folklore and ancestral tradition just add to the magic.

Orkney is an archipelago made up of approximately 70 islands and its position off the far north of Scotland on the same latitude as Oslo and Stockholm means that depending on what part of Scotland you live in, visiting generally requires a bit of planning as it can be more expensive and difficult to reach than some European countries.  After an almost 6 hour non-stop drive from Glasgow to reach the ferry terminal at Scrabster I can testify to this!  However, none of this should be a reason to put off your visit as there are also options to fly or catch a ferry from Aberdeen, it's just a case of planning the journey in a way that works best for you.

With a mere 36 hours to explore and 20 or so inhabited islands to choose from, I had to plan my visit wisely and decided to focus most of my time on Mainland, the largest of the Orkney islands.  I managed to squeeze A LOT into my stay although there is also A LOT that I didn't manage to do, but I did have an absolutely amazing time so I thought I would share my 3 day Orkney travel itinerary to help you with planning your own trip.

I started my day on the 8:45 Northlink ferry from Scrabster to Stromness and the 90 minute journey across the Pentland Firth.  I spent much of my time out on the windy deck, watching the seabirds bob and weave alongside us and kept my eyes peeled for some of the marine life that frequents the area, although sadly this time I wasn't rewarded for my perseverance.  Even though the day was fairly calm, the boat rose and dipped as it traversed the swell of the waves and I can imagine that these exposed waters could provide a pretty bumpy ride if the weather was not on your side.
Before reaching Stromness, the ferry skirts around the fringes of Hoy, the second largest island in Orkney and most famous for its iconic sea stack affectionately named the Old Man of Hoy which inevitably convinces every virgin visitor to grab their cameras, rush out on deck and brave the exposed conditions to capture a few shaky snaps as the ferry lurches by.  For me, an even bigger bonus was the towering cliffs of Hoy, rising dramatically into the clouds like a setting from Middle-earth, while the ferry Captain managed to sail surprisingly close to the tallest vertical cliff face in Britain at St John's Head,  a maneuver no doubt perfected to wow the gawking passengers! 

After my endurance drive the previous day, I was relieved to finally step ashore at Stromness, ditch the car and let someone else take the wheel for a while.  I had booked a day tour with Wildabout Orkney and was very relieved to sit back and relax in the comfort of their executive touring vehicle while I soaked up the expert commentary from our guide Clive.
Their tours are ideal for day trippers to Orkney who want to maximise their visit by being personally guided around some of the most famous attractions and dropped off again in time for their return ferry.  The tours vary slightly depending on the day of the week and I enjoyed their 'Treasures of Orkney' tour with the following itinerary.  

Next up was the highly impressive Skara Brae, a 5000 year old village uncovered by a storm in 1850 and now considered the best-preserved Neolithic settlement in Western Europe.  Walking around you can peer in to the ancient homes complete with stone furniture and fittings, that's if you can take your eyes off the huge sweep of white sand and turquoise water of the neighbouring beach!  The mounds around the site were actually created by rubbish thrown away by the inhabitants and if you look closely you will see little trenches that reveal piles of discarded shells.  Older than the pyramids, the details of this site are simply mind blowing and its location is spectacular, this was by far my favourite archaeological attraction out of those I visited and again a must for any Orkney travel itinerary.