I've just returned from a brilliant short stay in Caithness and spent three days exploring not just Caithness but also the neighbouring region of Sutherland.  For those that don't know, Caithness is the region that covers the most north-easterly part of the Scottish mainland and takes in the towns of Wick, Thurso and the iconic John O'Groats, it also forms part of the NC500 driving route and is the departure point for ferries travelling to Orkney.

You could easily spend a week or more taking in the sights, but what if you don't have that long to spare? In this blog post I have suggested three one day road trip itineraries that cover some of the highlights of the area and take in some scenic Sutherland too.

​I stayed at the Auld Post Office Bed and Breakfast in Spittal-by-Mybster which sits in a really convenient position for visiting Thurso on the north coast (approx 15 min drive), and Wick on the east coast (approx 20 min drive). I found it an ideal base for exploring some of the best bits of Caithness and thanks to the owners, Lynne and Weyland, I also discovered a few hidden gems.

As bed and breakfast accommodation generally forms part of the owner's home, I find there is a greater pride taken in maintaining everything to a high standard. As the owners are also the hosts, they are able to look after guests on a more personal level and that was backed up by my experience at the Auld Post Office.

From the moment I arrived, Lynne and Weyland welcomed me into their home and personally took the time to show me around. Their two guest rooms are in a separate annexe with its own entrance so you have the option to interact with your hosts as often or as little as you feel comfortable with. They also have a self-contained dog friendly cottage that is detached from the main house. Throughout my stay Lynne and Weyland were on hand to make sure I had everything I needed without being intrusive.

Their rooms are tastefully decorated in an Art Deco style and both have patio doors leading out to the garden which was a big plus for me. Not only do the doors bring lots of light into the rooms, being able to open them up added a feeling of extra space too. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to make use of the patio furniture due to snow but I still enjoyed stepping outside to listen to the birds singing and to breathe in the crisp winter air. It would be a real treat to stay in better weather, leave the doors open and sit out on the garden furniture with a coffee and a book.

The rooms themselves are well equipped with a TV, fridge, bathrobes, storage space, hairdryer, armchairs and hospitality tray - Lynne had even left me out a box of gluten free cookies - which is what I mean about personal touches.

When travelling there are two things that really help set me up for a full day of activities, a sound night's sleep and a hearty breakfast. With a big bowl of fresh berries, yoghurt, toast and a cooked Scottish breakfast washed down with orange juice and a pot of coffee​, my stomach was happily groaning. When I ended up out in the wilds and not being able to track down a café until after lunchtime, I can tell you I was grateful that my belly had been so well filled that morning!

Despite eating a gluten free diet, I was well catered for and didn't feel like my breakfast had been compromised in any way. As long as you let them know in advance, Lynne and Weyland will cater for any dietary requirements without a fuss.

I should also add that my breakfast was superbly cooked and the eggs are from their own hens.

LOCAL ADVICE

When you stay at a bed and breakfast or guesthouse, you are staying with locals in their home and there is usually no-one better placed to advise you on an area than someone who lives there. I thought I knew Caithness pretty well but Lynne and Weyland were able to share lots of places with me that are really only known to locals, along with some general tips for exploring. I ended up with a list of new places to visit and I managed to see dozens of red deer thanks to one of their tips!

Lynne even went above and beyond by offering to take me to one of her favourite spots that I didn't know about. The Brig O'Stack is a dramatic sea cave just south of Wick which makes for a great photo, especially if you have someone to snap you standing on top of it.

Not only did Lynne direct me right to it, she even offered to walk further along the coast to take my photo and by the time I caught back up with her she had whipped up some amazing hot chocolates on a windy cliff edge - that definitely deserves a 5 star review! Although I'm sure this isn't something Lynne normally has the time to do, she will happily give you detailed directions to some special places that you won't find in the guidebooks.

GIN TASTING EXPERIENCE

Over recent years I've found that bed and breakfasts and guesthouses are really upping their game, with many offering unique experiences to their guests. The Auld Post Office is the first bed and breakfast I've stayed at with its own gin tasting room in the garden where guests can sample and learn about a variety of Scottish gins.

As the bed and breakfast is a 10 minute drive from the nearest pub, I think it is brilliant that guests have the option of booking entertainment in the evening without having to worry about taking the car. As the tasting room is separate from the main house and styled like a bar, it does feel like you are on a night out even though you only have to walk across the lawn!

Lynne and Weyland have over 180 bottles in their collection and can advise on different gin styles and garnishes to compliment them. I found this a really fun and different way to end the day and although booking a gin tasting experience isn't compulsory when you stay, I can highly recommend it.

Wick sits on the north east coast of Scotland, just over a 2 hour drive north of Inverness and just over 20 minutes south of John O'Groats. It is one of two principal towns in the Caithness region of Scotland, the other being Thurso.

In the days when waterways were the main means of travel and transport, Wick's position along the mouth of the Wick River and the North Sea made it an ideal trading port. During the time of Viking rule it was named 'Vik' which is Old Norse for 'bay'.

In 1589 it gained Royal Burgh status in recognition of its importance as a commercial seaport and as the fishing industry expanded, so did the town. The biggest growth took place during the fishing boom of the 19th century, and at one stage Wick was the busiest herring port in Europe.

Although there are now only a fraction of the boats that once worked out of the harbour, the sea continues to provide other work opportunities in offshore industries.

I'm not going to sugar-coat it (and apologies to any Wickers reading this!) - my first impression of Wick wasn't a great one - granted I never ventured further than the town centre but all I could see was a place that looked a little tired and not that appealing to a visitor so I didn't stick around very long. Fast forward a few years of frequently stopping in the town on my travels to and from Orkney, along with several holidays in the area, and I have been won over by Wick. The layers of history, the stunning scenery and the warmth of Wickers who always seem to be up for a chat has seeped into my bones and I now relish my regular trips here. 

The road that passes through the town forms part of popular North Coast 500 and is the main route for anyone travelling to the far north east coast of Scotland, including the famed John O' Groats and the Gill's Bay ferry route to Orkney. Despite being in a strategic position for capitalising on the booming north coast tourist market, I often hear complaints from locals that visitors don't stop here in any meaningful numbers or for any length of time. Maybe, like me, they are guilty of judging the town on its initial faded appearance, or maybe they just don't know what there is to do and don't stop long enough to find out.

Either way, I'm hoping this blog post with my favourite discoveries of things to do in and around Wick goes some way to rectifying that and maybe makes some amends for my own unfair judgement. Maybe it will even convert a few of you that have initially written Wick off to give it another chance like I did, or convince those of you planning to explore the north coast of Scotland to add it to your itinerary. It is a place that deserves a longer stay to really appreciate everything on offer in the area and hopefully this list inspires you to do exactly that. 

Don't be fooled by the unassuming exterior of this heritage centre near the harbour as once inside you will realise the museum is both a Tardis and an Aladdin's Cave.  The volume and variety of objects is almost overwhelming so I recommend taking your time to soak in everything there is to see.

Rooms have been furnished to give a sense of bygone times, with a bigger exhibition space dedicated to Wick's significant fishing industry.  However, one of the highlights that makes this centre unique is their collection of local photographs taken by three generations of Caithness photographers.

Known as the Johnston Collection, the images document over a century of local life from 1863 to 1975 and include the era when Wick was the herring capital of Europe.  I highly recommend this as your first port of call when visiting the town as it will give you a deeper understanding and appreciation of Wick's significant history.

It may not be Scotland's grandest fortification, but theCastle of Old Wick is one of Scotland's oldest castles, thought to date back to the 1100s, which makes the fact it is still standing at all quite a feat. Its precarious clifftop location is great for defensive purposes but also means it stands at the mercy of the North Sea, as has done for hundreds of years, making this squat ruin mightier than it looks. 

The 1-mile trail along the blustery coast from Wick to reach the castle ticks the boxes for scenery and history. The square tower was once four storeys high and would have been the residential part of the castle which included a hall, living room and private chambers.  Surrounding the tower are remains of other structures that would have included servant's quarters, workshops, bakehouse, brewhouse and stables.  Indeed, the extensive fortress would have covered much of the headland it sits on.

​Today it is in the care of Historic Environment Scotland and is free to visit at any time.

​On the day I visit the Castle of Old Wick, the sky is stormy and brooding, the wind is howling and the sea is boiling and frothing. 

Luckily, living in Orkney, I'm used to these conditions and exploring the coast of Caithness in the winter requires the same hardiness and thick layers of clothing to withstand the North Sea forces.  The masochist in me actually enjoys being outdoors when the elements are at their harshest as it often means witnessing Mother Nature at her most dramatic.

After a short gusty walk along the cliff trail from the car park, during which I just about manage to stay upright, I get my first glimpse of one of Scotland's oldest castles, thought to date back to the 1100s.  

I've seen some people comment that there isn't much to see, personally I'm surprised that so much of the walls of the squat square tower are still standing.   Let's not forget it is around 900 years old and sits in an exposed position on a narrow headland being battered by wind and water on a regular basis.  I know I look pretty rough after just a couple of hours outside in those conditions!

As the waves crash against the rocks below I can imagine that this could be a bleak place to ​stay in the winter. However, as defensive positions go, building on a location that has sheer craggy sea cliffs on three sides is a smart choice.  The remaining side on the mainland was defended by a gatehouse, two defensive ditches and drawbridge, just to make sure it was pretty much impregnable.

The castle's prominent coastal position also made it a good navigational marker and sailors referred to it as 'The Old Man of Wick'.