I'll be the first to admit that Royal Deeside is a part of Scotland that I don't know very well. Famous as a favourite stomping ground of Queen Victoria, the current Royal Family continue to enjoy their summer break at Balmoral Castle, one of many fine castles that dot the area.
The River Dee flows through the heart of the region which also encompasses nature reserves and part of the Cairngorms National Park, making it a favourite destination for lovers of the outdoors. All of this makes me wonder why, other than a visit to the Braemar Gathering, I've not spent more time getting to know this part of the country.
Recently, I was invited to stay at Mill of Dess Lodge on the Lower Dess Estate, and decided this would be the perfect opportunity to make a proper acquaintance with Royal Deeside.
Lower Dess Estate is situated next to the pretty village of Aboyne between the town of Banchory and the village of Ballater which means it is centrally located for exploring the region. Lower Dess is a relatively small estate on the north side of the River Dee which offers peaceful river walks and fishing on the doorstep.
Nearby Glen Tanar Estate has numerous walking and biking trails through Caledonian pine forests and acres of wilderness. If you prefer something different the estate also runs Land Rover safaris which from my experience in other parts of the country, can be a really fun way to get off the beaten track.
If castles are your thing, you will be spoiled for choice with so many just a short drive away. Some of the best local castle choices are Craigievar, Crathes, Drum, Kildrummy, Corgaff, Braemar and of course Balmoral, although check the opening hours and days for each castle as they do vary depending on the time of the year. For the complete Scottish experience, you can combine a castle tour with some local whisky from the Royal Lochnagar Distillery which runs tours and tastings.
Of course, you could just spend time exploring the pretty towns and villages that dot the river or follow the Victorian Heritage Trail which takes in many regal castles, estates and landmarks.
I've listed the things I got up to during my visit at the bottom of the page if you need any more ideas.
On arrival we were welcomed by Anna, the Lodge Manager, who gave us a quick tour before showing us to our bedroom. By luck Mr Adventures Around Scotland and I had the entire place to ourselves which made our stay even more special.
The lodge has 10 bedrooms, a sitting area and a dining room. You can stay on a bed and breakfast basis (as I did) or book the entire lodge and even organise private catering if you prefer to eat in.
As you can see from my photos, the decor has a light and contemporary feel with some bright touches and a rustic nod to the local wildlife. The lodge is furnished to a high standard and was spotlessly clean, it really did feel quite luxurious.
Everything you need to know for a memorable road-trip along the Aberdeenshire Coastal Trail
Everyone has a landscape that they are drawn to, a setting where they instantly feel at home. It could be the mountains, forests, or even the bustle of the city - for me, it has always been the coast. A couple of summers ago I decided to travel around the entire periphery of mainland Scotland on a 6 week road-trip. As this was only enough time to get a taster of the many coastal gems around the country, I mentally noted all the places I wanted to return to and explore more thoroughly at a later date.
One of those places was the Aberdeenshire Coastal Trail, which I only became aware of thanks to brown tourist signs along the road-side. Post trip research provided little information on the route other than an online leaflet which I printed off. This seemed a bit strange given the obvious amount of investment in signage.
So last year while everyone else was off doing the North Coast 500, I opted to return to Aberdeenshire and follow the suggested 165 mile route. This was effectively the second time I'd been along this stretch of coastal road but this time I had more opportunity to visit places.
I loved it even more the second time around and made lots of new discoveries although I still didn't manage to spend as much time as I would have liked in some places - Banff being one. However, having completed the journey twice I have gotten to know it well enough that I feel confident my own suggested highlights along with the official literature will help you get the most out of the route.
There is so much diversity along this small edge of the country and I recommend setting aside 3 - 5 days so you can experience as much as possible. The following highlights are not a comprehensive guide and you should leave enough time to make your own discoveries but these are the places I think shouldn't be missed - grab a cup of tea, there's a lot to take in!
St Cyrus Nature Reserve
HIGHLIGHTS - NATURE, BEACH, EASY WALKING TRAIL, HISTORIC CHURCH
The first stop on the Aberdeenshire Coastal Trail and indeed my first stop, was the National Nature Reserve at St Cyrus. I parked up at the visitor centre where I picked up some leaflets and had a look at the board where members of the public note down their wildlife sightings. I was jealous of those that had spotted whales off the shore during the summer, and although it was unlikely I would see one as it was too late in the season, I was optimistic of spotting a peregrine due to the numerous recent comments about sightings.
One of the leaflets in the centre provided details of the Tyrie Trail, an easy circular walk of just under a mile through the reserve which is home to more than 300 plant species. I opted to follow the trail, adding in a slight detour to the Sand of St Cyrus, a beautiful beach that stretched as far as I could see in either direction, with some quirky driftwood shelters dotted along the sands.
The trail leaves from the visitor centre and heads over a bridge built by a troop of Gurkhas as a community training project. Stone markers on the ground lead the way through the reserve which was full of fungi during my autumn visit but must be teeming with wildlife in the spring and summer. Before the trail heads back to the visitor centre, it passes the Nether Kirkyard. I love exploring old churches so just had to stop off for a quick look around the atmospheric ruin which sits in the most picturesque spot below some towering cliffs. I was also rewarded with a peregrine falcon, shrieking and circling overhead. From here it is a short walk back to the visitor centre where you can share your wildlife sightings.
As you head back look out for the former ice-house which is now a quirky looking holiday home.
Fowlsheugh RSPB Reserve
HIGHLIGHTS - VERY LARGE BREEDING SEABIRD COLONY, SCENIC CLIFFTOP WALK
ST CYRUS TO FOWLSHEUGH
DISTANCE - 16 MILES APPROX DRIVING TIME - 30 MINS
I didn't stop off at the Fowlsheugh RSPB Reserve on my latest road-trip along the Aberdeenshire Coastal Trail as it was the wrong time of year to spot the vast amount of seabirds that can be seen perching on the cliff edges during the breeding season from late April until the end of July. However, I did take a walk along the clifftop path on a previous visit during the summer and it was a complete assault on the senses, thanks to the noise and smell!
The spectacle of over 130,000 breeding seabirds is a really memorable one and at the right time of year, RSPB Fowlsheugh should definitely be one your Aberdeenshire coastal stop offs. It is one of the largest seabird colonies on mainland Britain and some of the birds to look out for include guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes, puffins and fulmars. Take binoculars and you can also scan the sea below for local marine mammals. The clifftop path is fairly easy walking, just be careful of going too near the edge as it is a long drop to the sea below!
HIGHLIGHTS - HISTORIC CASTLE, ICONIC SCENERY
FOWLSHEUGH TO DUNNOTTAR CASTLE
DISTANCE - 2.5 MILES APPROX DRIVING TIME - 5 MINS
One of the most photogenic (and photographed!) castles in Scotland is Dunnottar and this is a popular stopping point along the coastal trail. I would love to tell you more about visiting the castle but I've yet to look inside due to bad timing on my part, something I really need to rectify.
Previously home to the Earls Marischal, one of Scotland's most powerful families, the castle has a colourful past involving some of the most famous figures in Scottish history. Today it is one of Aberdeenshire's most popular tourist attractions.
About Peterhead Prison Museum
Peterhead may not be the first town in Scotland you think of as a tourist destination. It is probably better known as one of the busiest fishing ports in Europe and home to one of the most notorious prisons in the country.
When the Victorian built HMP Peterhead finally closed in 2013 to be replaced by the modern facilities of HMP Grampian, it was a stroke of genius to turn the old jail into a museum and open up Scotland's own version of Alactraz to the public. An institution that put Peterhead on the map for all the wrong reasons is now becoming one of its biggest tourism assets.
Some might call it dark tourism but the history of Peterhead Prison is just as valid and relevant as any Scottish castle or stately home.
For most people that have never spent time in a jail, there is a natural curiosity to find out what goes on behind the barbed-wire fences and the steel barred windows. As a tourist attraction it has to be the most unique place I've visited in Scotland.
Like many people, the images of prison guard, Jackie Stuart, being taken hostage and paraded on the rooftop during an infamous riot in 1987, will always be etched in my mind. As I walked out the reception and entered the grounds, I was immediately confronted with the intimidating prison building and protest banners iconically associated with the riot.
Unfortunately this is the last of my #ScotCoast summary blog posts as I'm sure by now most of you will know that I decided to bring my journey to a premature end due to a rather amazing opportunity popping up in my e-mail inbox. In fact day 14 was the day that signalled the beginning of the end of my adventure around the coast of Scotland as this was in fact the day that very e-mail came through and my plans all went up in the air!
As I left the quirky Coastal Carriage near Fraserburgh, my plan for the day (at that point) was to continue along the coast to Inverness where I would be reunited with Willow (I must admit I was missing her furry cuddles!) and my mum, who had planned to join me for a week as I think I was inspiring her to add some adventure to her summer too.
I had never travelled along this part of the coast of Scotland before and I instantly fell in love with it. Dramatic cliffs, green rolling hills and little toy villages nestled on tiny strips of land at the bottom of craggy rock faces. I love adventuring somewhere new and I was excited for the day ahead,
My first stop was at Pennan, a pretty village that is famous for featuring in the 1980s film, Local Hero. After a very steep and winding drive, I enjoyed a stroll along the beach, photographing the characterful cottages and picturesque harbour.
If you've been reading this blog for a while you probably know by now that I can't resist little honesty boxes selling local goods and crafts so I was delighted to pick up a little card as a souvenir of my visit.
Another steep uphill drive and I continued along to Crovie. Again this village sits tucked in to the bottom of the cliffs and as there is no public parking you have a choice of either stopping at the viewpoint car park and walking down (and up!) the road if you want to visit or simply enjoy the scene from above. Guess which option I went for!
I LOVE finding quirky accommodation in Scotland and it doesn't get much quirkier than the Coastal Carriage, an upcycled vintage rail carriage set in a quiet field on a family run farm just along the coast from Fraserburgh in Aberdeenshire.
When the owner Carole invited me to experience this unique retreat for myself, I was determined to find an excuse to visit and luckily for me I was able to include an overnight stay during my recent #ScotCoast adventures. The first thing that struck me was the privacy and tranquility of the setting before I was wowed with the views of the Moray Firth and Banffshire Coast stretching across the horizon. It really felt like I had stumbled upon a little pocket of paradise.
I love watching George Clarke's Amazing Spaces and often wish I had the skill and imagination to redesign a small and quirky space into something not only charming but also functional and that is exactly what Carole and Mathew have achieved with the coastal carriage.
On the rails from 1937 until the 1960s, the carriage was later used as storage by a crofter and gradually began to fall in to a bad state of decay before Carole and Mathew rescued it. The video below shows the journey of the carriage through its restoration. The before and after shots would make George Clarke proud!
Inside is beautifully rustic with a wood burning stove to keep you toasty on colder days and you can also boil the kettle or cook your dinner on the hotplate at the same time. Wood is provided.
The cupboards and shelves are packed with all the crockery and utensils you should need.
Although my cold wasn't completely gone, I decided it was time to get back on the road and head north again through Fife. I have already explored a good bit of the Fife coast so I only really planned to spend a day in the region with plenty of photo stops of course as it is a rather photogenic part of the country.
I had also left Willow behind for a few days which meant I was free to do some activities that weren't so dog friendly.
My first stop was Culross, one of my favourite places in the country and even in the morning it was already busy with tourists, partly due to the Outlander effect as this is the filming location used for the fictional village of Cranesmuir. You can read more about Culross and other Outlander filming locations in Fife in this blog post.
The East Neuk of Fife is brimming with colourful and characterful towns and villages including my next stop at St Monans.
At my next stop in the equally pretty Pittenweem I had arranged to catch up with fellow travel blogger, Nicola from Funky Ellas Travel. I got to know Nicola through my year in Scotlanders and although I've since left, we still keep in touch. It was great to catch up with her for lunch and a chat, do pop over and check out her blog for lots more Scottish travel tips.
It wouldn't be right if I met up with a fellow Scottish travel blogger and we didn't do some exploring together so we ventured to St Fillan's cave, once used by smugglers and later became a focal point for pilgrimages. The little smiling rock outside made my day, I'm easily amused!
Not having Willow meant I could pop in to the Scottish Fisheries Museum at my next stop in Anstruther and find out more about the history of fishing in Scotland. A series of galleries and interesting displays really helped me understand more about how the industry has shaped Scotland's coastal way of life and was a really relevant education for my trip.
Berthed in the harbour outside the Fisheries Museum you will find the Reaper, a historic ship which featured in the first episode of Outlander Season 2 when Jamie and Claire arrive in France.
The scene was actually filmed not far away in Dysart, this is a photo I took of the ship on the film set of Outlander last year.
As I was passing through Crail I just had to stop at this giant sand sculpture which had been created to commemorate those left behind after the Battle of the Somme with all donations going to Erskine Hospital which has been caring for veterans since 1916.
My journey continued through the centre of St Andrews and although I didn't stop this time, you can find photos from one of my previous visits here.
Crossing from Fife and in to Angus, I could feel my energy quickly fading and decided it was time to rest for the evening. On a whim I followed a camping sign for Tayview caravan park in Monifeith, another place I had never been until this trip. The weather was typically undecided, pouring one minute then sunny the next and I suddenly felt overwhelmed with tiredness thanks to my lingering cold so when I discovered I could have a glamping lodge complete with TV for only £13 more than a tent pitch, I was sold! For £40 I could stick the kettle on, watch TV, open the patio doors and enjoy my dinner alfresco with a view of the Firth of Tay. After I was fuelled I enjoyed a walk along the beach before falling in to bed, bargain!
The next morning I stopped for a closer look at some modern standing stones near the beach with an inscribed verse from the poem 'The Wild Geese' by Violet Jacob, all about longing for home.
'And far abune the Angus straths I saw the wild geese flee,
A lang, lang skein o’ beatin’ wings, wi’ their heids towards the sea,
And aye their cryin’ voices trailed ahint them on the air –'
Another sculpture that caught my attention before leaving Monifeith was 'The Welder' outside Tescos. It was looking a bit rusty and past its best, however it interested me as it celebrated a little piece of local history. On the site of the sculpture had stood the Monifeith Foundry in 1811 which had employed around 300 people from the local area by 1880 and although there is no trace of it today, it is nice that an important industry from the town's past hasn't been completely forgotten.
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