A Guide to the Braemar Gathering

The tarmac road and occasional car snaking through the winding glen is the only reminder that I'm still in 21st Century Scotland.  For long periods the silence lingers and I feel overwhelmed by the beauty of the timeless sprawling mountain landscape before me.  Glenshee might mean the 'Glen of the Fairies' but I can't help thinking it could comfortably house a small army of giants without any trouble.
This glen has been used as a route north to the Highlands for thousands of years, and like numerous travellers before me, my journey is destined to end at a 'Gathering'.  From cattle drovers to Kings and Queens, I wonder how many of them have also stood here in the same awe.

Before reaching my terminus at Braemar, I have to navigate the highest main road in the UK over the ear popping Cairnwell Pass, a route surprisingly well frequented in the winter thanks to those flocking to the largest ski and snowboard resort in Scotland.  A further 9 miles of twists and turns through the wild terrain of the Cairngorms National Park brings me to its heart at the village of Braemar and the end of my journey.
Thanks to its geographical position, Braemar has been the ideal location for various 'gatherings' throughout the centuries.  A strategic place in the days of clan warfare, a meeting point of cattle droving roads, the centre of the biggest deer forest in the country and a place frequented by Scottish Kings.  The current Braemar Royal Highland Gathering is just the latest in a long list of local meetings. 

According to tradition it is said the original Braemar Gathering dates back to the time of King Malcolm Canmore who would call the clans to the Braes of Mar and have members compete against each other to find the strongest and quickest soldiers.
Gatherings at Braemar continued until after Culloden and the failed 1745 Uprising, when they were banned by law for over 30 years and were not up and running again until 1800.  
In 1815 the Braemar Wrights Society was formed to organise a welfare and social insurance system.  The Wrights Society subsequently became the Braemar Highland Society, with aims to preserve the kilt, language and cultural interests of the Highlands, values which continue to this day.  The Society's Annual Procession laid the roots for the current Braemar Gathering which has enjoyed Patronage of successive Monarchs since Queen Victoria.

I had been invited to experience the world famous Braemar Gathering as a guest of Glenfiddich Whisky, sponsors of the Heavy Events, including the iconic tossing of the caber.  However, my weekend would also involve a further two Glenfiddich themed 'gatherings'  with dinner, whisky tasting and new friends.
On the Friday evening my diverse dinner group of Glenfiddich representatives, whisky brand ambassadors, heavy athletes, journalists and honorary guests quickly got chatting and the relaxed tone of the weekend was set. Common bonds were discovered and new acquaintances toasted with a few special drams.  I felt privileged to be part of the first tasting in Scotland of the new Glenfiddich Project XX (or kiss kiss as it quickly became known!) and my preference for more expensive whiskies was confirmed when I took a special shine to the Glenfiddich 30 year old.
With the ice broken and the whisky neat, my first gathering continued into the wee hours.

The following morning there was a palpable buzz in the air as I joined excited tourists, locals and participants meandering their way towards the Princess Royal and Duke of Fife Memorial Park in Braemar.  Marching bands with swirling bagpipes and beating drums advanced along the historic main street, with an enthralled audience trailing in their wake, a scene not dissimilar to those found in the pages of a Pied Piper storybook!

On the first Saturday of September each year, this patch of greenery in the Scottish Highlands attracts a diverse international assembly, drawn together for a traditional gathering of competing, judging and spectating.
Heavy athletes, Highland dancers, runners, pipe bands and even top military athletes take part in various challenges designed to identify the strongest, fastest or most talented in their field.

Image Credit - John Paul Photography for Glenfiddich

Although this was my first visit to the Braemar Gathering, I've been to quite a few Highland Games before and find the best thing to do on arrival is to walk around the arena and get a feel for the layout.  It can be quite confusing at first as multiple events take place on the field at the same time.
If you haven't pre-booked a seat then you can choose the best vantage point for the events that you are most interested in, and although I was lucky enough to have an invite for the private enclosure, I still spent a good part of the day strolling around so I could catch a little bit of everything.

Although I usually find heavy events the most dramatic to watch, at Braemar I found myself covering my eyes and shifting to the edge of my seat as the Drum Majors took it in turn to throw their mace over the Glenfiddich banner. It might sound simple enough but as you will see in the video below it's a feat few managed and for the majority that miss their catch, there is a definite danger of injury to anyone in close proximity to a rogue mace!

Successful catches and unpredictable misses also make for the best expressions!

Image Credit - John Paul Photography for Glenfiddich

Gatherings at Braemar have also attracted Kings and Queens over the centuries, with our current Monarch, Queen Elizabeth II, being the longest serving Patron of the Braemar Royal Highland Society.  Having first attended aged 7, she has only missed the Gathering four times since ascending to the throne in 1952.
Once again this year she didn't let the expectant crowd down and arrived at 3pm promptly, accompanied by Prince Philip, Prince Charles and Princess Anne.  The presence of so many prominent members of the royal family was certainly an audience pleaser.
Unfortunately there was no photography permitted in the private enclosure during the royal visit as it situated adjacent to the Royal Enclosure, but it was nice to see the Queen close up genuinely enjoying herself.

Image Credit - John Paul Photography for Glenfiddich

As the afternoon rolled on and the final heats came to a close, champions were decided and prizes awarded.  A few select winners even had the privilege of meeting and being congratulated by the Queen in person, including Gelnfiddich's own heavy champion, Lorne Colthart, who was more than chuffed for the rest of the day.
The royal cars then departed the arena a mere hour after arriving, followed by marching pipe bands and waving onlookers.  Another successful gathering at Braemar had come to a finish and the jubilant crowd began to spill onto the streets once more.
​For me, it was time to don my tartan dress and rejoin the Glenfiddich guests for one final gathering.

Image Credit - John Paul Photography for Glenfiddich

Our celebratory Glenfiddich dinner that evening was at the very fitting setting of Mar Lodge which sat shrouded in an eerie layer of mist as we approached.  A few jokes about Scooby Doo and dinner guests at remote mansions having a tendency to disappear one by one were banded around and when we were shown around the slightly macabre Stag Ballroom, adorned with 2437 sets of antlers, I found myself moving to the middle of the group as we all know the ones at the back are always the first to go!

The dining room itself felt every bit like a luxury Scottish Highland estate house should, complete with a few mounted deer heads to remind you of its hunting lodge credentials.
A delicious dinner was accompanied by some very exclusive Glenfiddich whisky and quite possibly the most expensive whisky I've drank, with a couple of the bottles retailing at more than several thousand pounds each. Needless to say I savoured those drams a little longer than usual!

In the spirit of a true Scottish gathering, the evening continued with traditional music, stories, dancing, laughter and of course plenty of whisky!  With the witching hour approaching and our coach ready to transport us back to Braemar, hands were joined in friendship one last time and the lyrics of Auld Lang Syne belted out in true Scottish fashion.
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For one weekend each year, Braemar brings people from all different backgrounds together in a celebration of Scottish tradition and Highland hospitality and I for one hope that this friendly annual gathering continues to take place here for many centuries to come.
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I was very kindly invited to attend the Braemar Gathering as a guest of Glenfiddich Whisky, however as always, all opinions are from my personal experience :-)

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