Caithness, Scotland - Where to stay and what to do

This post is part of a paid partnership with Be Our Guest Scotland to showcase the diverse range of bed and breakfast and guest house options around Scotland.

A short break in Caithness, Scotland

I've just returned from a brilliant short stay in Caithness and spent three days exploring not just Caithness but also the neighbouring region of Sutherland.  For those that don't know, Caithness is the region that covers the most north-easterly part of the Scottish mainland and takes in the towns of Wick, Thurso and the iconic John O'Groats, it also forms part of the NC500 driving route and is the departure point for ferries travelling to Orkney.

You could easily spend a week or more taking in the sights, but what if you don't have that long to spare? In this blog post I have suggested three one day road trip itineraries that cover some of the highlights of the area and take in some scenic Sutherland too.

WHERE TO STAY
​The Auld Post Office Bed and Breakfast

​I stayed at the Auld Post Office Bed and Breakfast in Spittal-by-Mybster which sits in a really convenient position for visiting Thurso on the north coast (approx 15 min drive), and Wick on the east coast (approx 20 min drive). I found it an ideal base for exploring some of the best bits of Caithness and thanks to the owners, Lynne and Weyland, I also discovered a few hidden gems.

THE ACCOMMODATION

As bed and breakfast accommodation generally forms part of the owner's home, I find there is a greater pride taken in maintaining everything to a high standard. As the owners are also the hosts, they are able to look after guests on a more personal level and that was backed up by my experience at the Auld Post Office.

From the moment I arrived, Lynne and Weyland welcomed me into their home and personally took the time to show me around. Their two guest rooms are in a separate annexe with its own entrance so you have the option to interact with your hosts as often or as little as you feel comfortable with. They also have a self-contained dog friendly cottage that is detached from the main house. Throughout my stay Lynne and Weyland were on hand to make sure I had everything I needed without being intrusive.

Their rooms are tastefully decorated in an Art Deco style and both have patio doors leading out to the garden which was a big plus for me. Not only do the doors bring lots of light into the rooms, being able to open them up added a feeling of extra space too. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to make use of the patio furniture due to snow but I still enjoyed stepping outside to listen to the birds singing and to breathe in the crisp winter air. It would be a real treat to stay in better weather, leave the doors open and sit out on the garden furniture with a coffee and a book.

The rooms themselves are well equipped with a TV, fridge, bathrobes, storage space, hairdryer, armchairs and hospitality tray - Lynne had even left me out a box of gluten free cookies - which is what I mean about personal touches.

THE BREAKFAST

When travelling there are two things that really help set me up for a full day of activities, a sound night's sleep and a hearty breakfast. With a big bowl of fresh berries, yoghurt, toast and a cooked Scottish breakfast washed down with orange juice and a pot of coffee​, my stomach was happily groaning. When I ended up out in the wilds and not being able to track down a café until after lunchtime, I can tell you I was grateful that my belly had been so well filled that morning!

Despite eating a gluten free diet, I was well catered for and didn't feel like my breakfast had been compromised in any way. As long as you let them know in advance, Lynne and Weyland will cater for any dietary requirements without a fuss.

I should also add that my breakfast was superbly cooked and the eggs are from their own hens.

LOCAL ADVICE

When you stay at a bed and breakfast or guesthouse, you are staying with locals in their home and there is usually no-one better placed to advise you on an area than someone who lives there. I thought I knew Caithness pretty well but Lynne and Weyland were able to share lots of places with me that are really only known to locals, along with some general tips for exploring. I ended up with a list of new places to visit and I managed to see dozens of red deer thanks to one of their tips!

Lynne even went above and beyond by offering to take me to one of her favourite spots that I didn't know about. The Brig O'Stack is a dramatic sea cave just south of Wick which makes for a great photo, especially if you have someone to snap you standing on top of it.

Not only did Lynne direct me right to it, she even offered to walk further along the coast to take my photo and by the time I caught back up with her she had whipped up some amazing hot chocolates on a windy cliff edge - that definitely deserves a 5 star review! Although I'm sure this isn't something Lynne normally has the time to do, she will happily give you detailed directions to some special places that you won't find in the guidebooks.

GIN TASTING EXPERIENCE

Over recent years I've found that bed and breakfasts and guesthouses are really upping their game, with many offering unique experiences to their guests. The Auld Post Office is the first bed and breakfast I've stayed at with its own gin tasting room in the garden where guests can sample and learn about a variety of Scottish gins.

As the bed and breakfast is a 10 minute drive from the nearest pub, I think it is brilliant that guests have the option of booking entertainment in the evening without having to worry about taking the car. As the tasting room is separate from the main house and styled like a bar, it does feel like you are on a night out even though you only have to walk across the lawn!

Lynne and Weyland have over 180 bottles in their collection and can advise on different gin styles and garnishes to compliment them. I found this a really fun and different way to end the day and although booking a gin tasting experience isn't compulsory when you stay, I can highly recommend it.

There are lots of other little extras that I've not mentioned that make a stay here that bit more special but you will just need to book a stay and discover them for yourself. Overall, I am very happy to recommend The Auld Post Office as a great place to stay in Caithness that epitomises all the best qualities of what a bed and breakfast experience should be and then some.

​Book your stay at The Auld Post Office

Of course, accommodation is only one part of a trip and you are probably wondering what there is to do during your stay and I can assure you there is plenty! To get you started, I've listed three suggested road trip ideas that cover everything from ancient history to breathtaking beaches.

​WHAT TO DO IN CAITHNESS
​Three Caithness road trip itineraries

Using the Auld Post Office Bed and Breakfast as your base, these routes are all easy to follow. I have included all the highlights so you can personalise each route to your own interests. It is unlikely you will have the time to to visit every place listed so I suggest picking a few places that you definitely want to include and adding in more attractions if you have time left over.

OPTION 1 - THURSO TO DUNCANSBY HEAD
​BEST FOR - A LITTLE BIT OF EVERYTHING

​This road -trip takes you along the north coast of the Scottish mainland starting in the town of Thurso and finishing at Duncansby Head on the north east coast with an optional detour to the most northerly point at Dunnet Head.

HIGHLIGHTS
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• Thurso - Take a scenic walk along the river, go on a tour of Wolfburn Distillery and sample the local drams or explore the ruins of Old St Peter's Church
• Castletown - Visit the Castlehill Heritage Centre and follow the Caithness Flagstone Trail
• Dunnet - Amble along the sweeping sands of Dunnet Beach or spot the wood carvings on a walk in Dunnet Forest, go on a tour of Dunnet Bay Distillery, visit the most northerly point of the Scottish mainland at Dunnet Head or stop by Mary Ann's Cottage, a preserved croft mostly unchanged since the 1930s
• Castle and Gardens of Mey - Tour the former royal residence of the Queen Mother (seasonal)
• ​John O'Groats - Take a photo at the iconic sign and wander around the shops and eateries or go for a stroll along the beach
• Duncansby Head - Walk from the lighthouse to the photogenic Stacks of Duncansby, look out for seals below and puffins in the summer

OPTION 2 - WICK TO OUSDALE BROCH
​BEST FOR - HISTORY AND CHARMING HARBOURS

This road trip takes you down the east coast starting at the town of Wick and returning the same way with a suggested detour to Camster Cairns on the journey back.

HIGHLIGHTS

• Wick - There is quite a bit to do in around the town including an excellent heritage centre and some clifftop castles. I've listed all my recommended things to do in Wick in a separate blog post for your convenience
• Whaligoe Steps - Follow in the footsteps of the fisherwomen down the steep steps cut into the rock down to the natural harbour below
• Hill O'Many Stanes - Wander at the 200 stones erected in 22 rows, erected about 4000 years ago
• Lybster Harbour - Take a stroll around the pretty harbour filled with fishing boats and stop by the Waterlines Heritage Centre (seasonal)
• Latheronwheel Harbour - Take a walk from the harbour to the fairy glen, home to a magical fairy community
• Dunbeath Harbour - Another picturesque spot to stretch your legs and discover the story of Dunbeath at the heritage centre (part-time opening)
• Badbea Clearance Village - Explore the remains of this abandoned clifftop clearance village
• Ousdale Broch - Soak up this history at one of the finest examples of an iron-age broch in the region
• Camster Cairns - On the return journey to the Auld Post Office, take a detour via the Camster Cairns, a pair of Neolithic tombs built more than 5000 years ago

OPTION 3 - MELVICH TO HELMSDALE
BEST FOR - BEAUTIFUL BEACHES AND WILD LANDSCAPES

This is a circular road trip which gives you a taste of Sutherland and takes in some of the most stunning scenery and epic landscapes.

HIGHLIGHTS

Melvich - Head for the expansive sandy beach or take a walk from the Drownings Memorial to the sheltered harbour in Portskerra 
Strathy Beach - Cross the sand dunes and explore the caves and rock formations at the edge of this beautiful beach
Bettyhill - Learn about the history of the area and the Highland Clearances at Strathnaver Museum (reopens 2023) or walk to Farr Beach, another stunning stretch of sand
Strathnaver Trail - Follow the trail which takes in part of this route and stop off at the suggested points of interest
Syre to Kinbrace - Escape the tourist trails and take in the epic vast landscape of the Flow Country
Helmsdale - Walk around the harbour, visit Timespan Heritage and Art Centre, and look out for The Emigrants, a statue commemorating the people of the Highlands and Islands that left their homeland
Achavanich Stones - Stop by the 4000 year old standing stones placed in an unusual horseshoe setting

Hopefully this has given you some ideas for a trip to Caithness, one of Scotland's lesser explored regions. To discover more unique bed and breakfasts and guesthouses around the country, pop over to the Be Our Guest website.

I hope my latest Adventure Around Scotland has inspired you

Susanne x
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