Things to do in Uist

28/11/2021

This post is part of a paid partnership with West Coast Waters to promote the many ways you can immerse your senses around the Scottish west coast

Back in August I was sat in the ferry queue in Uig in Skye bursting with excitement and anticipation at the prospect of another west coast adventure. The last time I waited in this queue was on a trip to Harris and Lewis, this time I was sailing to North Uist. My excitement levels were ramped up to the max because not only was this my first trip to Uist, it was also a proper holiday which meant I could truly immerse myself in the real-time beauty of the Hebrides without any online distractions or work commitments.

I deleted my social media apps from my phone, ensured my e-mail out of office was switched on and took some deep breaths before fully embracing vacation mode. Before long I was stood out on the deck of the CalMac ferry with the wind whipping my hair and the sea breeze reenergising my soul. On the horizon, Uist and new adventures awaited.

In case you didn't know, Uist is a chain of islands linked by causeways, stretching from Eriskay in the south to Berneray in the north with South Uist, Benbecula, Grimsay and North Uist between them. There are also other smaller islands linked by causeways off of the main islands so if ticking off Scottish islands is your thing this is a good place to start, I managed 9 on this trip!

The following week saw a new chapter of wondrous west coast memories added to my Scotland travel journal and I'm sharing some of my favourite island highlights from Uist in this blog which might be just the inspiration you need for planning your next Scottish adventure.

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Immerse yourself in the beaches

If there is a beach nearby, you can be sure I'll visit it! I love being by the sea, padding barefoot through the sand and dipping my toes in the water. In Uist I had countless beaches to choose from and although I couldn't possible visit them all, I did discover a few crackers including -

Hougharry Beach, North Uist - This was a highlight not just because it was closest to our accommodation which meant we visited most days, but also because it is typically pretty in a Hebridean way. My husband spent his time snorkelling the clear waters while I hunted for Groatie Buckie shells, a favourite pastime back home in Orkney. Our dog Willow flitted between us both, bounding about the beach before splashing in the sea for a paddle.

Baleshare Beach, Baleshare - I had heard that the beach on this tidal island was impressive but I'd say that was an understatement. The view is obscured by dunes right up until the point you arrive on the rocky fringes of the coast. From here the vast sweep of sand stretches as far as the eye can see, along the entire island and all the way to Benbecula. It has a wild feel to it and I had an urge to walk along its length into the far distance but that will have to wait for another visit when I have more time.

Princes' Beach, Eriskay - Although this is a beach worth visiting in its own right, it is a must visit for anyone interested in Jacobite history like myself. It was here on the 23rd July 1745 that Bonnie Prince Charlie first set foot on Scottish soil. In Gaelic the beach is known as 'Coilleag a'Phrionnsa', translated to the Prince's cockleshell strand. Standing at the starting point of such a significant sequence of historical events and trying to imagine it through the eyes of Charles Edward Stuart was quite a feeling.

West Beach, Berneray - Even though I visited West Beach on a day so windy that the sand blasted several layers of skin off, I was still stunned by its beauty. Voted as one of the top beaches in Europe and previously used by mistake in a campaign to promote a beach in Thailand, it seems I'm not the only one that appreciates its gorgeousness. With miles of pristine sand, turquoise water and backed by the hills of Harris in the distance, this is the epitome of a photogenic Hebridean beach. Although the beaches of neighbouring Harris are regularly touted as the best in Scotland, I'd say they have a real competitor in Berneray.

Immerse yourself in the history

The history of Uist spans many significant chapters including Neolithic, Viking, Christian, Jacobite and the Clearances. The landscape is etched with reminders of bygone eras and there are many historical sites worth adding to your itinerary. With just one week to explore, I only managed to scratch the surface on my visit but it is always good to have an excuse to return to a place.

These are the attractions that I did stop by and that I think are worth seeing for yourself -

Trinity Temple, North Uist - This windswept ruin is thought to be Scotland's oldest university. The medieval monastery and college was founded around the 12th or 13th century by Beathag, the daughter of Somerled. Over the following centuries it has undergone extension, destruction and restoration. Today there is enough of the structure remaining to get a good feel for its history.

Barpa Langass, North Uist - A short uphill walk leads you to a 5000 year old burial cairn thought to be the final resting place of a Neolithic Chieftain. As the structure has partially collapsed you can't get inside. However, from here you can also walk to Pobull Fhinn, a stone circle regarded as the finest of its kind in North Uist. The views alone are worth the effort.

Flora MacDonald's Birthplace, South Uist - I should point out that although this is claimed to be the place where Flora MacDonald was born in 1722 and lived her early life, some dispute this. Nevertheless, there is a monument erected here to the local woman that helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape capture after Culloden. The area is also dotted with the foundations of the cottages that once stood here and with a bit of imagination you can sense how this small community would have looked centuries ago.

Howmore Ancient Churches and Chapels, South Uist - This was my favourite historic site to visit as there is not one ancient church or chapel to see, but the remains of at least four of them dating back to around the 13th century. I loved walking around the peaceful setting littered with ancient moss-covered walls and tall stone crosses, it felt very atmospheric. The surrounding village of Howmore is worth a visit in its own right to see the traditional thatched cottages - you can also walk to the beach from here if you need any more reasons to visit!

Immerse yourself in local crafts

If there is one message that I hope to get across to fellow travellers, it is that shopping local is one of the best things you can do to support the communities you visit. This is particularly true in rural and island destinations where job opportunities can be limited and people's livelihoods often depend on income from tourists. This includes the many creative individuals who live in places like Uist, drawing inspiration from their surroundings.

I love buying handcrafted souvenirs as mementos of my trips and my visit to Uist was no exception. I came home with lots of goodies including artwork, candles and wool. I discovered lots of great wee shops on my island travels and these were some of my favourites -

The Coralbox, Berneray - I have followed owner Eilidh on social media for a while and we even did a calendar swap this year. Her photos of Berneray were partly what inspired me to visit. I couldn't go to Uist and not stop by her charming shop by the harbour and I'm glad I did. It is packed with all sorts of lovely island gifts as you can see from the photo above and I may have left with a bag full of them!

Taigh Chearsabhagh Museum & Arts Centre, North UIst - When we arrived on the ferry at Lochmaddy, this was my first stop as it is right next to the ferry terminal. There are lots of original local arts and crafts for sale in the shop from cards to jewellery and textiles. As it was also my last stop before leaving North Uist, I popped in again for a few last minute souvenirs.

Uist Wool Mill, Grimsay - Much to my mum's disappointment I have not turned my hand to knitting, despite her many efforts to encourage me over the years. However, she does love to knit and is always looking for new projects so this seemed like the ideal place for inspiration. Uist Wool has co-operative values and runs as a not-for-profit organisation, supporting local crofters, makers and creators which means shopping here supports multiple islanders. I opted for one of their jumper patterns and the wool needed to make it. My mum happily took on the task of knitting it up so I now have a truly personal and unique item of clothing originating from Uist.

Hebridean Candles, Grimsay - Another great wee find in Grimsay was Hebridean Candles. When we visited the owner wasn't there but the workshop was open and we were able to browse and sniff until our heart's content. When we were ready to make our purchases there was an honesty box to leave our money in - a common occurrence in Scottish islands and the fact these are able to remain always puts my faith back in humanity. From peat fire to sea breeze scents, you will be able to immerse your senses in the Hebrides long after you return home.

MacGillivrays Gift Shop, Benbecula - This third generation family business has a range of artwork, homewares, clothing, jewellery, music and books with a Hebridean theme. I love to read about the places I visit so I was delighted to find books about Uist that I hadn't come across anywhere else and left with a couple of new reads. If you are flying in or out of Benbecula, this is handily located for the airport.

Kildonan Museum Shop, South Uist - This is a must stop destination in South Uist for the museum, cafe and shop which is an Aladdin's Cave of handmade gifts. I've been to many a museum shop that sells generic tourist tat but this was not one of them. In fact there were so many lovely and unusual things it was hard to choose. I settled on some pottery but could honestly have gone a bit mad if my bank balance would have stretched to it!

Immerse yourself in the food & drink

Since the blog has an emphasis on ways to immerse your senses in Uist, it wouldn't be complete without a nod to the local food and drink. Although we were staying in a self-catering cottage we still ate out at least once a day and when we did buy food for cooking at home we mainly shopped in the nearby community store, opting for local produce where possible.

There aren't actually that many options for eating out on many of the islands but these were the places I tried and loved, along with a few local producers I came across -

Claddach Kirkibost Centre Cafe, North Uist - This was the nearest café to where we were staying and we were also able to sit with our dog at the picnic tables in the garden area which has a gorgeous sea view. The food was delicious too so needless to say we stopped by a few times. It also has a small gift shop with locally made crafts for sale.

Taigh Chearsabhagh Cafe, North Uist - I mentioned the gift shop here already but thought I should give the café a mention too as it is an ideal food or coffee stop while you're waiting for the ferry.

The Dunes Cabin, North Uist - I didn't realise scallops and bacon on a roll was a thing until I went to Uist. I was recommended this local delicacy from this takeaway cabin before I went, and well what can I say but YUM! As it is next to the beach, you can also enjoy your food while sitting on the sand, the perfect seaside combo.

Kildonan Museum Cafe, South Uist - This is a great refreshment stop when you're exploring South Uist and I ended up popping in here a couple of times. Good food, friendly staff and reasonable prices, what more can I say?

Grimsay Coffee and Bakehouse, Grimsay - This was another café we ended up at a couple of times and the fact that it is dog friendly was a bonus. It has a nice laidback local feel and there are some local crafts for sale too. The café is next to the Grimsay Boatshed where you can see traditionally built local boats.

Hebridean Smokehouse, North Uist - From smoked seafood to pates, you can pick up some lovely local delicacies from this North Uist smokehouse - perfect if you are self-catering like we were or for a picnic. You will also find their products in food shops around Uist so you don't need to go to the smokehouse to track them down.

Maclean’s Bakery, Benbecula - Opened in 1987, this Benbecula family bakery has grown to be the largest private business in the Western Isles. From bread to biscuits, cakes and oatcakes, they produce fresh baked items every day. You can find their products in their own shop and many other shops throughout the islands.

North Uist Distillery, Benbecula - Although whisky is the ultimate goal for this distillery, their current offering is a Scottish dry gin called Downpour with notes of citrus, spice and wild Hebridean heather. They don't have a visitor centre just yet but they have opened a shop in their new distillery building at Nunton Steadings in Benbecula.

Other Uist Highlights

Hopefully this blog post has given you some inspiration for visiting Uist and ways to immerse yourself in the scenery, history and culture. I found Uist to be a much quieter option than neighbouring Lewis and Harris, so this might suit those of you keen for a relaxing holiday like I was. Although I visited in summer, many of the places mentioned are open all year so a trip out of season would still be rewarding plus the scenery is stunning all year round.

One thing I haven't mentioned is the many walking and cycling options, simply because this was a lazy holiday for me so active activities weren't on the agenda this time. However my visit has inspired me to follow in the wheels of the many cyclists I came across completing the Hebridean Way. If walking is your thing then I always recommend the WalkHighlands site as a good starting point.

Finally, I just wanted to share a few more of my highlights if you need even more inspiration or persuasion -

Spotting herds of cute, hairy Highland Coos in North Uist

Watching the sunset over St Kilda from the St Kilda Viewpoint in North Uist

Seeing hen harriers circling next to the Committee Road in North Uist

Visiting the statue of Hercules the Bear and reading about his escapades in North Uist

Learning about traditional boat building at Grimsay Boat Haven

Stroking the native ponies that roam freely around Eriskay

Walking up to the giant sculpture known as Our Lady of the Isles in South Uist

A HANDY MAP OF ALL THE LOCATIONS MENTIONED

For even more Scottish west coast inspiration, be sure to check out the
West Coast Waters website

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