Exploring The Creative Orkney Trail

I was recently relayed a surprising story from an accommodation provider who had asked two of his guests how they had enjoyed their holiday on Orkney.  He was a bit taken aback when they exclaimed that they hadn't and assumed they must have had a negative experience which spoiled their vacation.  However, it turned out it was Orkney itself that they had an adverse reaction to, specifically all the 'shrines to dead people', apparently they preferred places that 'celebrate the living'.

This story surprised me for two reasons, firstly because I think the majority of people that visit Orkney are well aware that the islands are famous for their abundant historic and archaeological sites.  I think it would even be fair to say that many people come here because of the preserved sacred ancient monuments that housed the dead.

I was also surprised as they must have been oblivious to the 22,000+ people that are currently in the land of the living and call Orkney home.  In fact, as Scottish islands go, the community and population of Orkney is very much alive.  Just a glance at the Orcadian newspaper or posters in shop windows will provide you with a wide selection of local events which also welcome visitors.

​So where else can visitors go if they want to experience present day life on the Orkney Islands?

The Creative Trail is a fantastic celebration of contemporary artists who welcome visitors to their workshops and studios.  Although many of them are continuing a tradition, they very much represent modern day Orkney.  These are not living museums, they are places where you can experience Orcadian life in the present.

I recently spent a day driving through some beautiful island scenery and stopping by to chat with some of the many artists on the trail.  Without fail, I received a warm welcome from each maker or designer who enthusiastically educated me on their craft.  I even enjoyed some cups of tea and biscuits to sustain me on my journey.  All in all it was a very sociable day and proof that there is more to Orkney than notable relics.

Visiting the businesses is an interesting excursion in itself, however combining a visit with a local attraction can make a unique and varied day out so I've also included some nearby suggestions.  Each business provided me their recommendation and I've also added in my own favourites too.

These are the stops I made, however, there are many more makers you can visit.  They are all listed on The Creative Trail website or look out for the brown tourist signs as you travel around.

Alison Moore Designs

My morning started in the village of Dounby which is home to Alison Moore, a former geology student who now designs jewellery.  Perhaps not surprisingly, many of her pieces feature ethically sourced gemstones, with much of her inspiration coming from her observations of the natural world.  Her small shop and work-space is light and contemporary, perfect for showing off the delicate silver and gold pieces in her collections. 
Amazingly, Alison is largely self-taught and she tells me her design ideas come from many places including childhood memories, walks on the beach, emotions and natural forms.
While she sits polishing a rather stunning ring that reminds me of the ocean, we chat about the wild swimming adventures that she frequently shares on her Instagram stories.  Although only recently taking up the hobby, it has quickly become a daily ritual.  She explains that as well as the health benefits, it has also given her a different perspective of the islands.  Her photos from below the waves are very ethereal and I wondered if this underwater world would inspire a future collection, "No doubt" says Alison and with her current love of the sea, I would be very surprised if it didn't. 
After interacting with Alison on social media and admiring her work, it was lovely to meet her in person.  Being able to chat directly with the makers and designers is the beauty of The Creative Trail.  

Combine a visit here with -

Alison recommends - a trip to Birsay to take a walk along the coast and explore the rock pools

I recommend - a visit to Orkney Brewery for a tour and some lunch

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Michael Sinclair Woodturner

Just along the road in Harray, I meet up with Michael and Sara Sinclair.  Our chat got off to a good start over a coffee and this is the kind of homely welcome you can expect at many of the smaller businesses.
Michael is a wood turner and I discover that he is also self-taught, which again is kind of hard to believe when you see the quality of his work and it is these high standards that saw him accepted onto the Register of Professional Turners in 2017. 
Being born and bred on Orkney has led to a local influence in his work which includes bowls and 'petroshperes' mainly inspired by the Neolithic period.  His pieces are beautifully displayed in their small gallery but visitors can also take a look behind the scenes in the rustic workshop.
Of course, wood on Orkney can be a little hard to come by due to a lack of trees so local sycamore has to be topped up with sustainable hardwood from Inverness.  From tree trunks to the finished product, Michael and Sara were more than happy to guide me around and explain the process to me as I sipped on my coffee.
What started out as a hobby has now become a full-time career and I get the impression that Michael is quietly proud to contribute to the heritage of quality craftsmanship on the islands he grew up on.

Combine a visit here with -

Michael & Sara recommend - a visit to the Broch of Gurness or a walk in Binscarth Wood

I recommend - exploring the Heart of Neolithic Orkney

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Harray Potter

When you work as a potter, live in Harray and J.K Rowling writes a series of bestselling Harry Potter books, the marketing potential for your business has just went through the roof.  Andrew Appleby will tell you he is the original Harray Potter and I don't think anyone can dispute that! 
Andrew is based at Fursbreck Pottery which is a quirky little gallery/workshop and as I arrive he is busy at his wheel, throwing pots at an incredible rate.  Not only am I impressed that he can work so quickly but that he can also hold a conversation while doing so - then again, he is a master of his craft with decades of experience.
Andrew has a love of archaeology dating back to childhood and his youthful investigations led to the discovery of a Neolithic site containing prehistoric pottery.  His subsequent interest and research in to Neolithic pottery has influenced his work, both in his ceramics and his series of 'Skara' novels.  On chatting to Andrew, I wonder how he finds the time for his many pursuits which include pottery, writing, archaeology, exploring and current President of the John Rae Society.  It turns out that sacrificing some sleep helps!
As I leave, he is already starting to fill a second tray of pots and despite the quick pace of his throwing, I get the impression this is how he relaxes.

Combine a visit here with -

Andrew recommends - visiting Corrigall and Kirkbuster Farm Museums or Barony Mill 

I recommend - going for a walk and some bird watching at RSPB Cottaascarth

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Aurora

My next stop was at Aurora, another of Orkney's well established jewellery businesses.  They actually have shops in Kirkwall, Lerwick and Thurso, but their workshop just outside Kirkwall is the place to go if you want to see behind the scenes.
I met with master craftsman, Steven Cooper, who explained more about the design and making processes of their jewellery.  Their contemporary gold and silver pieces are all created using traditional methods and finished by hand in the workshop.  The Orkney influence is also strong here, with collections inspired by the Ring of Brodgar and Maeshowe among many other local themes.
Steven's passion for jewellery making began in 1987 and after mastering his skills, he set up Aurora in 1998 which specialises in hand crafting jewellery in a traditional way.  A window gives visitors a view of the work in progress and small selection of their jewellery is also on display.
Steven's workbench is situated at a window overlooking Scapa Flow and I don't know how he manages to get any work done as I'd just spend my day gazing out at the view!  As we chat he saws, files and applies his blowtorch to pieces of metal that seem decidedly fiddly to me and I wonder what jewellery item they will eventually be transformed into.

Combine a visit here with -

Stephen recommends - enjoying the view across Scapa Flow from outside the workshop

I recommend - a walk or a drive to the top of Wideford Hill for extensive views over Orkney

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Ortak

At Ortak's workshop in Kirkwall, I meet up with Managing Director, Michael Gardens.  It is fair to say that Ortak is one of Orkney's most famous jewellery businesses, with a history dating back to 1967 and a back catalogue containing over 10,000 designs.
After going in to administration in 2013, Michael has now taken over at the helm and he explained to me his ambitious plans for the business.  Having previously worked as a manager for Ortak, he has his own ideas for the future.  He has also been able to re-hire some of the original employees, ensuring their valuable skills have been retained.
As I visit, there is construction going on to fully open up the large workshop to the public and offer them tours behind the scenes.  At one work bench I watch the delicate process of enamel being applied, while at another bench runic letters are being carefully engraved on a ring. 
Although established craft skills continue to have a vital role, new technology and design software are helping to carry the business forward.  Michael explains that it is this mix of tradition and innovation that is allowing Ortak to expand into new markets while continuing to retain its Orkney heritage and base.
Michael is also keen to support other local creatives and is the chair of Creative Orkney.  Losing Ortak would have been a big blow to the islands so I am glad to see it is moving forward again.

Combine a visit here with -

Michael recommends - a walk around the harbour and marina with an ice-cream

I recommend - a visit to the Grain Earth House

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Orkney Hand Crafted Furniture

Fraser Anderson is part of a new generation of Orkney crafters and his passion for keeping traditional skills alive is a breath of fresh air.  His love of working with wood and the design of classic Orkney chairs, saw him take up a local apprenticeship and gain an SVQ in hand crafted furniture.
He enthusiastically shows me around his business which he set up in 2004 when he was only 19.  His gallery and workshop is full of furniture and Orkney chairs in various states of completion.  Although he is very keen to make chairs in the traditional island way, he also makes them to measure and has started creating his own take on the designs.  He proudly shows me his new kissing chair and other contemporary adaptions which end up all over the world.  A map marks the many places across the globe where his designs have found a new home.
I wonder where all the wood comes from and Fraser tells me that much of it is driftwood washed up on local skerries, although he then has to wait years for it to dry out enough to work with.  Driftwood is the historic material used to build the chairs but demand means that he also has to use hardwoods in some of his designs.
I leave Fraser's workshop feeling optimistic for the future of this historic craft as he is a fantastic young ambassador for these unique chairs that have been very much part of Orkney's identity for generations. 

Combine a visit here with -

Fraser recommends - I actually forgot to ask him, I hope to rectify this soon!

I recommend - a walk along the Crantit Trail

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Scapa Crafts

Just a short walk from Fraser's workshop I meet with one of the few other remaining professional Orkney chair makers.  Jackie Miller and his wife Marlene own Scapa Crafts and display their chairs in a small contemporary gallery next to their home.
After a long day, I was very happy when Marlene put the kettle on for a cuppa and I gratefully took a seat on one of their comfy chairs while I found out more about the business they started in 1993.
Jackie had a familiar Orcadian story of growing up on the islands and watching previous generations of his family work with straw and create their own furniture out of necessity.  He explained that when he was younger he didn't fully appreciate the skills they were teaching him, but later found himself drawn to the tradition of making straw backs for Orkney chairs and turned out to be rather good at it.
Their gallery is filled with piles of local straw and Marlene gave me a demonstration on cleaning it.  She explained the many factors that play a vital role in producing the perfect straw needed for a golden shine.  Traditional harvesting methods need to be used and each chair is made of straw from the same year and season.
I'm pleased to hear that their daughter and granddaughter have been keen to learn the skills needed to keep the business going for generations to come.  The future of the Orkney chair certainly seems to be bright.

Combine a visit here with -

Jackie & Marlene recommend - visiting Scapa Beach or a tour of Highland Park Distillery

I recommend - visiting St Magnus Cathedral 

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Hoxa Tapestry Gallery

Hoxa Tapestry Gallery was founded by Leila Thomson in 1996 to display her large, handwoven tapestries.  To say she comes from an artistic family would be an understatement.  She was the fourth of her sisters to attend Edinburgh College of Art where she graduated with a BA Hons. in Tapestry in 1980.  One of her older sisters is Sheila Fleet, a well known Orkney jewellery designer who also has a workshop and gallery on The Creative Trail.
Leila's daughter Jo followed in her mother's footsteps and graduated from Edinburgh College of Art with a BA Hons. in Drawing and Painting in 2010 and 2 of Leila's nieces have also graduated from the same college.
I meet mother and daughter at the gallery where they both now display their art.  Unfortunately, Leila has just finished a body of work so I don't get to see a demonstration of her tapestry making this time but she is able to show me photographs of the process.  Jo is working on her latest project of hand-dyeing local wool in colours that reflect the Orkney landscape.
Although they each have their own artistic disciplines, they also collaborate on rug designs. The rugs are then handcrafted by Leila or son Andrew who is busy dealing with customers when I visit but seems to be a Jack-of-many-trades as he also does the admin, picture framing and tea making.  Hoxa Gallery appears to be a true Orcadian family business!

Combine a visit here with -

Leila and Andrew recommend - visiting the Sand o'Wright or ordering the seafood platter at The Murray Arms Hotel 

I recommend - a visit to the wartime ruins at Hoxa Head

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Not only are the businesses on the Creative Trail a great place for tourists to visit, many of them also provide employment and contribute to the local economy.  Yes, these islands have an incredible history but they also have a current tale to tell.  If 'shrines to the dead' are not your thing or you just want to experience 'the real Orkney' then visit these living, breathing, locals who will provide a warm welcome and a few stories of their own.

​​Disclaimer - This blog post is part of a sponsored partnership to promote the Orkney Creative Trail, however as always all experiences and opinions are based on my own personal experience